Nice setup Spiros! @fiveten thanks for the photos. Wish I could work inside the house

Jeremy,
It has been a little while since I have posted on your build journal, and I read it from where I left off last. As far as a riveting tool, I have picked up two that were called "Rosie the Riveter" and I have used them on numerous projects since then. They were a little expensive, but they work like a dream. The only problem I have encountered while using them was trying to place rivets in areas that are close to a vertical panel such as an engine nacelle. But any of these riveting tools that use a roller wheel concept will have a similar problem. The ones called Rosie the Riveter come in various sizes and even offer a double or triple row tool should you be interested. I have been very happy with mine, and wish I had it when I was working on my 1/48 scale Monogram PBY Catalina several years ago.

I have never tried the marbling technique, but I must say yours is looking very good. I always manage to spray on too heavy of a coat when I do attempt to pre-shade a model, and this makes it practically useless for me. The one I did that turned out nice was a desert schemed He-111 in overall RLM 79...

Your Zero is looking very good, now that you are building a Nakajima built A6M, those Aotake colored wheel wells are looking very good. They also had a small white ring that went around the fuselage Hinomaru's...while the Mitsubishi planes did not. The Mitsubishi built planes had their wheel wells painted using the same color as the rest of the exterior, and the Nakajima built birds used Aotake here.

Here's a link to an article I wrote a while ago that goes into some the little differences between Nakajima and Mitsubishi built machines.

Random thoughts on Japanese colors. The Japanese A6M Zero…Part 1

Jeremy, @jmillan
It's good the way it is now...Both Mitsubishi and Nakajima both built Zeros...and they were "almost" identical except for some little things that set the manufacturers apart. I read something that parts were not easily interchangeable between the two companies, more so on the very early built examples, so that was a "field expedient" method to easily distinguish between the two different companies planes. You can see it's present on the picture you posted of the Blayd Zero and it's also visible on the picture I posted with the Zero color article.

All you have to do is add a small white ring around the fuselage Hinomaru and it will be perfect...This white ring is what was said to have been the visual identifier between the two companies. It really does look good how you have it looking now. The Blue Aotake gives it a nice color contrast.

It's your kit, so what you decide is up to you. Build it how you want to, and remember to have fun.

Thanks Louis and Erik.
So i sprayed the flaps a lighter color and the more I look at this plane the more it looks too green. Specially compared to other A6M2’s. It also looks different depending what lights I have on and how it looks on my phone when I take a picture. This is a tricky color to get right. Not sure If I can fix that. Maybe a light grey filter over it. If any one has any suggestions let me know? Thanks

4 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Darn, it looks great! As for the color, only one thing can tell you the truth - bright sun. If it looks OK in the sun, then it is OK. With LED's and energysaver and all the wonders of new, it is very difficult to check any color I think. A picture outside in the sun will tell you the factual color. It looks OK on my screen, albeit with the greenish tint you describe.

By the way - that Aotake is stunning!

it is amazing how a shade differs depending on the light conditions, Jeremy @jmillan!
Looks great under ther sun!

As I'm no expert on these things, I would go to some of Louis Gardners splendid researches here on iModeler, but I do agree with you on the thought that it looks a bit too greenish. To tone it down, I really do not know. A wild guess would be a very thin grey?