A-4B Skyhawk – Fuerza Aerea Argentina, Falklands War – 1/48 scale

Started by Colin Gomez · 94 · 1 year ago
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    Colin Gomez said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, Eric @eb801. I like the way the Tamiya clear deepens the flat red and OD, which can get a bit chalky when sprayed. Apart from that, I know I made the correct choices. Luckily I found quite a few pics of period FAA A-4Bs on the Internet to compare. It's good to be able to use colors right out of the bottle in this case, especially when having to do touch-ups along the way. The clear coat is on now, so I hope to get to the oil wash tomorrow, when that coat is cured. Can't rush such things.

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    Colin Gomez said 2 years ago:

    More progress. Did the clear coat yesterday which I buffed lightly with the rubber finishing side of a sanding stick.

    This gives maximum smoothness for decals and oil wash. I then did the oil wash with the mix of Windsor and Newton Van Dyke Brown and Black. I also did some spotting and streaking with different shades of VanD Brown plus Yellow. The undersides were done very carefully, paying attention to the brilliant photo of the real thing posted earlier, showing appropriate wear and tear, staining etc. The overall oil wash procedure was about three hours of work, all together, applying tiny amounts of dilute oil paint in crevices, waiting a few minutes and wiping with a lint free cloth. I think I got the right balance in the end. You can't really tell until it is matt coated later. I will do a bit of airbrush touch-up work on the camo here and there (including post-shading) before decaling and matt coating. I still have to paint the hubs and tires on the undercarriage but things are moving right along. Hope this is worth following. Comments welcome.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Fantastic weathering, my friend @coling! Thanks for the how-to details and the buffing "tip" with the rubber end.
    Looking forward to your next steps of this utterly interesting an enjoyable build thread!

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    Eric Berg said 2 years ago:

    @coling - never thought to use the "rubber" side of a buffing stick. What a great idea. And it certainly looks good.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    The weathering looks excellent, Colin @coling
    Your tips are well appreciated and definitely something that I'm going to try.

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    Colin Gomez said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, Spiros@fiveten, Eric@eb801 and John@johnb. The weathering and touch-up stage is the most intense for me. All that previous work to preserve while adding new layers. The nice thing about the polishing stick option is it leaves little of no residue, compared to using a plastic polish paste.Tamiya Clear is nice and hard and protects the paint below but it does smooth out nicely with light pressure polishing (getting rid of orange peel surface). I will use this as a final finishing technique on airliners (if I get around to building one) or smooth glossy 50s jets, like the F-106 (I am tempted to get back to that Monongram kit in my stash). So many projects, so little time.

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    David Mills said 2 years ago:

    Great progress Colin! @coling

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    Tom Cleaver said 2 years ago:

    Looking really good @coling.

    Could you do us a favor and when you're dealing with your photos before you post them, go into "image" and click "brighten" and bring them up a bit? It will help in being able to see just what great stuff you are doing. Just sayin'...

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    Colin Gomez said 2 years ago:

    Thanks, David. Great to have you following this build. I should get a lot more done on the weekend.

    Thanks, Tom. I have actually brightened the images about 30% in most cases. I also use very bright "daylight" tone diva light designed for webcasts. Some ambient sun light helps, but it has been a cloudy and snowy (!) April in Ontario. The main issue at this high gloss stage is the way little is visible until the matt coat goes down, then the detail leaps out. I will keep experimenting with lighting and brightening as it is actually very useful to me to detect flaws in the finish, so hang in there. I think you will get to see fuller detail soon as this "comes to light." 🙂

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    Colin Gomez said 2 years ago:

    Quite a bit done. Many tiny jobs that had to be completed in the last stages: mask and paint cannon blast panels, small black tip on the nose, gloss coat, decaling, matt coat, paint attach landing gear, gear doors, flaps - all with edge hand painted red.

    I finally removed the canopy masks and had to clean up and paint the edge under the canopy. I also successfully removed the intake masks without marring the surrounding paint - phew! Attending to all these details always risks damaging the finish, so its a bit tense at times. I still need to attach the wing root cannons, speed brakes. some tiny details for the gear doors,decals for the undercarriage struts, paint and attach nav lights, attach leading edge slats and the engine exhaust nozzle. One of the bigger final jobs is to assemble paint and attach the TER and resin 1000 lb bomb, which finally arrived from Poland. That's it for now. My weekend is almost burned up, so I may not get this all done until next week. Oh well.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Fantastic progress, my friend @Coling! A lot of quality jobs done! The Skyhawk looks superb! Love the final finish.

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    Tom Cleaver said 2 years ago:

    You're headed towards a really nice finish line @coling. A great project all the way through.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    She gets together real nice, Colin @coling
    Just a few steps away from a great finish.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    She gets together real nice, Colin @coling
    Just a few steps away from a great finish.

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    Colin Gomez said 1 year, 12 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros@fiveten, Tom@tcinla and John@johnb.

    I have this almost done now but have run into a bit of hesitation about the load out. I have an excellent close up wartime pic of how the 1000 lb bomb was slung under the A-4B/Q (at least in some cases).

    It is the main reason why I bought a good resin version of the TER (Triple Ejector Rack), as well as a resin 1000 pounder. I figured that the quality and detail of these elements would help me in getting things lined up properly. That worked out pretty well, I think. It was easy to see how the connections on top of the Reskit bomb lined up with the attachments on the Eduard TER. The doubts crept in with the bomb slung under the model. The TER extends down pretty far below the main rack and the bomb is huge. There is still a fair bit of ground clearance but it is pretty low down. Some other pics of a-4 loadouts seem to show the bomb mounted without the TER on some aircraft, higher up. Even so, the previous photo seems to back up the TER mount idea with minimal ground clearance. What do you guys think? Should I go for it or snap it all off and try to mount it without the TER? I have to make this decision before I add the last delicate bits, like canopy, speed brakes cannon and tail antenna. I also want to leave the starboard slat off until the end. It has broken off some many times already that it should go on last. Comments welcome!