Two 1/32 scale Revell of Germany P-51-D5 Mustang builds. One as ”Cripes a Mighty 3rd” and ”LOU IV”

Started by Louis Gardner · 366 · 8 months ago
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    Louis Gardner said 2 years ago:

    The other problem was on both of these Mustangs, there is a compound curved metal part that fits along the leading edge of the wing, where it joins the fuselage at the wing root. This is the location that was previously discussed by Stephen Towle.

    On "LOU IV" this part was recently replaced with a new one, salvaged from another plane, or maybe even shined up some by the ground crew. Either way, it needs to be nice and shiny for both aircraft.

    This compound curved area was covered using Bare Metal Foil unsuccessfully on a number of times. Finally in frustration I gave up and set the models down until I could figure out what to do. Not cool...

    I had an idea, but it took me some time to actually try it out. It turns out the answer was very simple. I used a Molotow chrome refill and dropped a few drops into my Harder and Steenbeck air brush.



    So I added a little bit of lacquer thinner into the mix and sprayed it out on a set of 1/48 scale cowlings from a Monogram B-29... Two guesses about an upcoming project for our Korean War group. Can you say "Command Decision ?" Good, I knew you could. OK I'm no Mr. Rogers. This stuff looks really good as aluminum plate when thinned.


    I have a set of propellers for a project I stopped working on around 3 years ago. These are for a pair of 1/48 Tamiya G4M Betty bombers, with one slated to be done as a Yamamoto transport. This is how the Molotow looks when sprayed straight from the refill bottle, at least in my air brush.


    These are some 1/48 Hasegawa B5N Kate props...

    and this is a 1/48 Kate lower wing section. I'm going to eventually spray this with a thin coat of clear Blue and Clear Yellow to replicate an Aotake preservative coating.

    Finally here is a prop for a 1/48 Tamiya N1K "Rex". All of these items were done since I was on a roll. When the time comes, at least I will have these parts ready to go.

    I wanted to see how this stuff sprays straight out of the bottle...you can see how it works here.

    The results I came up with say this stuff is the best thing ever since sliced bread, (or the History Channel), take your pick.

    I was able to spray it straight without any thinner, and it looks like I had perfectly dipped plastic chrome kit supplied parts.

    Josh Patterson (@jpatt1000)

    Thanks to Josh Patterson here, you're a good man Josh ! Shout out, fist bump, whatever you want to call it, I say thanks brother, it worked exactly like you said it would.

    Step one done. Now I know this is going to work on the wing fillet I mentioned earlier. It will also work on the similarly shaped area where the vertical fin and horizontal stabilizer connect, so I can use it here too. Hmmm. Thinking about it, this will work on my 1/32 Hasegawa Ki-61 Hien that I "parked" for a very similar reason.. Right on !

    Step two coming right up. One down, one to go. Please stay tuned.

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    Louis Gardner said 2 years ago:

    Hot on the heels of these last updates is what you see here. The nose was smoothed up nicely, and the nasty seam where the windshield doesn't fit was worked on too.


    Once it was good, the nose was masked in preparation for the Bodney Blue paint.

    Once the masking was done, it was go time and I broke out the air brush again.

    I decided to spray some "overspray" on the base of the propeller blades at the same time. This overspray is visible in the pictures of the real plane.

    It was now time to remove the masking tape. Once this was done, I let the Mustang dry overnight, while a hurricane went by. On the following morning, we woke up, and to our surprise our electricity was still on... Yippee ! More bench time ! Hmm, Yippee ? Tamiya has a new tool P-38... OK enough of this nonsense...

    Well maybe not. Hmm . Time will tell. 😉


    Happy that our lights still worked ( read here mainly my magnifying lamp), next I started covering some panels on Cripes-A-Mighty using various shades of bare metal foil. Here you can see the underside of the nose.



    I covered the nose section and fuselage sides using three different shades of Bare Metal Foil. I'm going to be spraying the Molotow on the tail and wing fillets soon. I'm hoping it will simply remove from the foil with a Q-tip moistened with thinner like I have done in the past.

    If not, I'm doing the foil over again.

    Some of you might have noticed that I have raised the demarcation line between the Blue and the bare metal near the infamous fitting windscreen. I realized that I had the line too low the first time around. Now I have confirmed the proper location, as you see it here now.

    Please stay tuned for another update in a day or so.

    Thanks for stopping by, and as always, comments are encouraged.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Absolutely wonderful progress, my friend @lgardner! The Molotow chrome turned out superb.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    Indeed, excellent work on the chrome, Louis @lgardner
    Nice and shiny. I did not expect it to be sprayable with an airbrush.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Glad to see you are back, Louis (@lgardner). The Molotow is amazing stuff. I haven't tried it yet, but after seeing your results it is certainly on the list.

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    Erik Gjørup said 2 years ago:

    Happy to see your trials without thinner went well - as you may recall I thinned my Molotow, but encouraged by this some unthinned may firnd its way to my H&S.

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    Louis Gardner said 2 years ago:

    Spiros Pendedekas (@fiveten)
    John vd Biggelaar (@johnb)
    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Erik Gjørup (@airbum)

    Gentlemen,
    Much thanks you all for the kind words. I will make a much better reply to you very soon. Unfortunately right now I am very pressed for time, so tonight's update will be brief.

    Erik Gjørup (@airbum)
    I sprayed it through my H&S using the .020 tip and lower pressure, around 15 PSI. I sprayed more of it tonight using the same settings. Hope this helps.

    Please stay tuned for tonight's installment. Thanks !

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    Louis Gardner said 2 years ago:

    Here are the results of tonight's work. I sprayed the Molotow chrome on both Cripes-A-Mighty, and LOU IV.

    I went about this using two entirely different methods, one with careful masking, and one without. This is basically an experiment, to see which way works the best. Since this is the first time I have used it on a model, (other than the spraying of the test parts I showed previously), it's a whole new game and I have a lot to learn.

    On Cripes-A-Mighty, it was partially covered with foil. I knew going into this there was a chance the foil would be lifted if I used tape over the top of it. With this in mind, I used a 3M painters low tack tape for delicate surfaces.

    I used the low tack tape to go along the seams where the foil met the areas I wanted to spray using the Molotow refill.
    This is how it looked immediately afterwards.







    These areas were all compound curves, and very hard, if not impossible, to use foil on. I fully expected the tape to lift the foil. To my surprise, the foil actually held up much better than I anticipated.

    Here you can see how a small strip of Matt Aluminum foil was pulled up just below the Bodney Blue. It might be hard to see because originally I had the demarcation line too low, and this area was painted Blue.

    This is the compound curved area where previously I unsuccessfully tried to cover with foil. I was not able to get the foil to lay down smooth here, no matter what I did. Ultimately this is the "straw that broke the Camel's back", and caused me to park these builds while I figured out what to do.

    Here is the tail section of Cripes-A-Mighty after I removed the masking. Now you can see how nice the Molotow looks. I'm hoping that when I add the foil (once the Molotow dries sufficiently), I will not mar the shiny finish if the adhesive backing of the foil accidentally touches these areas. If it does damage the shine, I will have to re spray it. Hopefully this will not happen. Time will tell.






    With this in mind, I went a completely different route with spraying the Molotow chrome on "LOU IV".

    Here I decided to not mask anything, and I simply sprayed the chrome on. Once the Molotow dries, I will continue on with covering these planes with foil.

    As always, comments are encouraged. Thanks for stopping by.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    A fantastic technique, steadily improved, my friend @lgardner!

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Looks great, Louis (@lgardner). I have heard that the Molotow is really tough once it is dry. I am sure you will figure out a sequence that will get everything perfectly applied. Hope the doctor stuff is going well. Cheers.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    This Molotow is looking amazing, Louis @lagardner
    Shiny and smooth like a mirror, your technique works very well.

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    Erik Gjørup said 2 years ago:

    Now, that worked out fine! Great stuff - rather encouraging, leaving us with no excuses but to get going with some Chrome finish.

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    Louis Gardner said 2 years ago:

    Spiros Pendedekas (@fiveten)
    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    John vd Biggelaar (@johnb)
    Erik Gjørup (@airbum)

    Thanks gents for the kind words. Once again I am pressed for time, so this has to be a brief posting. I have almost completed the foil work on Cripes-A-Mighty now. All that is left is to cover the landing gear doors and flaps.

    Here are some pictures I took of the progress.

    I noticed in pictures of the real plane from WW2, the metal surrounding the cockpit is more or less the same in appearance. So I removed some of the foil on the fuselage and nose section, then reapplied new foil using Matt Aluminum shade.



    I changed the orientation to alter how the grain aligned. This gives the effect of different panels, since the light reflects off these areas a little differently now. It also makes the plane look more similar in color.

    I also replaced the stainless steel exhaust panel, using "Improved Chrome" shade of foil here. This will make it look more like the real plane too.

    Since the compound curved areas were sprayed with Molotow, it made things a whole lot easier and faster with the foil application.

    I started work on the stabilizers and fin, covering the leading edge in one wrap around piece.

    Since the tips were sprayed, it was easy to cover the rest of the flat areas. This shows how it looks now.


    The tail section was completed.

    Here is the end result. It's almost time to add the decals on this one.

    "LOU IV" will get a similar treatment, but since it is partially camouflaged, I will not have to cover the entire fuselage as I have here, unless I want to make it look as if the paint had chipped in a few areas.

    By using foil as a sub surface material, it's very easy to make chips in the paint, and the result looks very authentic.

    As always, comments are encouraged. Please look for another installment soon.

    Thanks for stopping by.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    This is very cool, Louis (@lgardner). I'm not sure I have ever seen anyone use foil, but it really does look nice. I suspect I have seen models with foil on them, but I didn't realize it had been used.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Wonderful so far, my friend @lgardner!