Two 1/32 scale Revell of Germany P-51-D5 Mustang builds. One as ”Cripes a Mighty 3rd” and ”LOU IV”

Started by Louis Gardner · 366 · 8 months ago
  • Profile Photo
    Tom Cleaver said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    As regards the P-51B "WR-P", the difference in shade of the two greens is due to the lighter color being earlier and therefore subject to some fading that summer of 1944, while the darker color was applied later (thus less-faded) and ovr the dark surface of the D-Day stripes. But the color in both instances does show RAF Dark Green.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Looking superb, my friend @lgardner! I believe the "mistake" will be effectively covered.

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    This is looking really neat, Louis @lgardner
    All the extra hours of polishing are definitely worth it.
    Thanks for sharing the information regarding the Malcom hood and I agree, your dog does look identically to Hoffer's dog. A beautiful dog.

  • Profile Photo
    David Mills said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Its all looking good Louis @lgardner that attention to detail is going to pay off!

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    You have done a ton of work, Louis (@lgardner). I hope the model truly appreciates every you are doing for it. Models can be so unappreciative at times. My go-to metallics used to be Floquil lacquers, but those have been extinct for a while. That is one of the reasons I haven't done a model with metal surfaces. I just couldn't find a paint that gave me the results I was looking for. I have recently settled on two different brands, both of which have worked well for me. One is Humbrol Metalcote in a spray can. Really fine-grained and spray well. Several of the colors can be polished with a t-shirt to a very high gloss. The other is Vallejo Metal Color. These are acrylics and spray fine right from the bottle, although I usually thin it about 20% with Vallejo acrylic thinner. I haven't done anything as extensive as your builds, but they both work fine for me. As I gain experience with them, I am slowly working up to all natural metal models. This is something I haven't done in years. I am sure you will be able to meet your completion goals and you will have some really accurate models. Cheers.

  • Profile Photo
    Dmitry Stropalov said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Blue nose Mustang is looking so great! Iconic aircraft.

  • Profile Photo
    Stephen W Towle said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    I think its well know for many modelers that the leading edge and maybe 1/2 of the wing was puttied and finished to help with the laminar flow wings. So the metal finish in that area is not a "metal" color its a silver finish. It looks like you've captured that silver finish on Preddy's Blue nose P-51 Louis.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  • Profile Photo
    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Tom Cleaver (@tcinla)
    I have to respectfully disagree with you about the Dark Green color on the Mustang. To me, (at least on my computer monitor), the Dark Green base color looks to be more like faded or older typical US Army "Olive Drab", since it has a brown base to it.

    But to be perfectly honest, it's hard to say exactly what color it "could" be or is. The newer / fresh paint does indeed resemble RAF Green. But this color too could have been a US color, since there are so many different variations of OD Green.

    There were a lot of OD Green color variations during the war, and even variations between batches of paint from the same manufacturer. Add in exposure to the elements, age of the paint, UV lighting at altitude, background color and even the brightness of the sun / natural / ambient lighting, and it's next to impossible to say what paint was used with 100 percent certainty.


    Here's the Mustang photo again. Based on what I recently experienced with taking pictures of the "Dark Green" paint on the wing of "LOU IV", and again with the differences with various background colors, it next to impossible for me to say with certainty that it's one color or another.


    Here are some original WW2 color pictures of Spitfires, and you can see how the Dark Green color even looks different between them as well.

    So I have been going with George's method of "TLAR" (That Looks About Right). 🙂

    I have also simply started calling it "Dark Green", and letting others decide how it looks to them. US Army OD Green or RAF Dark Green, it could have been either I guess.

    If it looks more like RAF Green to your eyes, then I'm perfectly good with that too. This is what makes our comments and suggestions / feedback great. You might have came up with a color I didn't think about, just as Dmitry did with adding the Yellow into the Dark Green mix to lighten it up some. I never would have thought of doing that, but I am going to try it out and see.

    @tcinla
    Thanks for the feedback Tom, and I do sincerely mean this.

    Dmitry Stropalov (@starfar)
    Thank you for the suggestion to add Yellow to the Green. I definitely will give this a try, and I will report the outcome here soon. I also appreciate the compliments on the Blue nosed Mustang. It happens to be my favorite all time paint scheme for any P-51. I know that many others have built models of this very same plane, so it's nothing new. But I like it... a lot.



    I had the opportunity to see a fully restored Mustang at Kermit weeks' museum called "Fantasy of Flight'. I took these pictures during our last visit there. I couldn't resist, and since it was painted up in my favorite colors, I just had to do it.


    Later on this same day, Kermit took up another one of his Mustangs and put on a show for us to see. It was a very good day !
    I took these pictures during the visit at the museum.

    Thanks again for the recommendation to add Yellow to the Dark Green in order to lighten it up some.

    Spiros Pendedekas (@fiveten)
    Thank you for stopping by, and for leaving the nice comments. Your completed Stormovik looks great in the headlines section. I hope to have "Cripes-A-Mighty III" there soon, hopefully on Christmas Day. I have made more progress, so please check back again for updates.

    John vd Biggelaar (@johnb)
    Thank you for the kind words. I do think the extra work to polish the wings was a step in the right direction. The aluminum color looks much brighter now, and I'm very pleased with the outcome. Yes, I am happy to provide more information on the Malcom Hood. I might even someday build a P-47 with one. I definitely have plans to build up Hoffer's "Salem Representative". When I do, I will make another build journal for it.


    My German Shepard is a big girl. She is very loyal, and also very protective, (which is one of the reasons why we got her). The picture I posted of her earlier was when she was still a pup. When I saw the picture of Hoffer's dog on the wing of his Mustang, I was shocked at the close resemblance. They seriously look as if they could be the same dog. I think it's how their eyes have the same arched fur, with very similar markings and facial expressions. They were also likely to be of the same age at the time when these two similar pictures were taken.

    Thanks for the kind words my friend.

    David Mills (@davem)
    Thanks David ! I sincerely appreciate the compliments. I have done a lot of research / online digging and reading on these two Mustang builds. Thankfully I have been fortunate to have been around a lot of the full sized versions too. It all seems to all be coming together in the end.

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Once I run out of the metallic paints, I will have to make a decision. I have received several really good replacement paint recommendations that will deserve a second closer look, with yours included in this little group. Thank you. I will definitely be getting back with you about this subject. I didn't want to get a paint that required a specific thinner though. I started using the Mr. Color Leveling thinner when I spray Tamiya and Mr. Color acrylics, and boy this stuff is fantastic. It works exactly as the name implies.

    Once my Model Master "Metallizer" is gone, I will likely avoid BMF aircraft for a little while, until I find a suitable replacement, (and I get proficient with it). I really do like how the Molotow sprays (and looks), but it has two drawbacks. It takes forever to dry, and it's expensive. I still enjoy using my Bare Metal Foil, and these two work together very well.
    One of the main things I liked about the MM Metalizer is that you could buff it to a high shine using a T-shirt, similar to what you described.

    I know that our models really don't take into consideration all of the thought and care that we give them... How dare they ! 🙂 They know how many hours we put in trying to make them look good...

    Stephen W Towle (@stephen-w-towle)
    Hello again my friend. The first picture you posted, the illustration on how the Mustang wing was filled and smoothed, is a great resource. I have seen it before. However, the second one you posted is brand new to me. It looks like it's a factory assembly line photo, since you can see the number on the wing.

    Very cool ! Thanks for sharing that with us. I have been spending a lot of time online over at Air Corps Aviation and browsing / reading the stories on their restoration work. There's a ton of information there, and I wouldn't have known about this, had not you mentioned it a while ago when we were discussing "Sierra Sue". This website is a gold mine / treasure trove of information.

    I think I have the wing on Major Preddy's Mustang as close as I can get it to looking like it would have sometime in 1944. Tonight I repainted the flaps. The original finish I sprayed on them a few years ago had cracked and wrinkled up in a few locations, so I ended up stripping them down to bare plastic and starting over again. I used the wrong thinner and it reacted with the paint. This time they should be good to go.

    I'm also getting ready to cover the ailerons and outer sections of the flaps using foil.

    Thanks for stopping by gentlemen, and please stay tuned for another installment. It's coming right up !

  • Profile Photo
    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Here is the progress I made on both Mustangs tonight.



    Here are two pictures showing both sides of the flaps for Major Preddy's Mustang. Several years ago when I originally painted them, I had a reaction occur between the paint and the type of thinner I originally used. I think the paint thinner was way too aggressive, which attacked the underlying coat of paint.

    This in turn caused the finish to wrinkle, but only where I sprayed the Black D Day Invasion Stripes on top of the White base coat.

    So I stripped them completely of paint, using "Easy Off" oven cleaner. It took several tries, and it's not recommended doing this unless you have good ventilation. This stuff is bad for you, so if you try it at home, please read the safety precautions, and PLEASE follow them. You don't want to breath this stuff in, or get it in your eyes. Wear gloves too.

    It will remove paint and not harm the plastic though.


    Next up we have the main landing gear doors. I painted the upper stripe using White paint. I missed this area originally, but now it's fixed. The rest of the gear doors will be covered using Bare Metal Foil, on the inside and out. I still have to wrap the landing gear oleo strut using Ultra Bright Chrome BMF. Then I will be able to get major Preddy's Mustang standing up on it's own two feet.


    I noticed a small stress crack had opened up along the upper seam of the fuselage on Cripes-A-Mighty III". I took the time to fix the blemish, and I re sprayed the last Invasion Stripe, using White that I had painted the flaps with.

    I installed the tail control surfaces again on Cripes-A-Mighty III. This will hopefully be the last time I do this on Major Preddy's plane. I have to go back and take a closer look at the original pictures again, as I might have to cover the adjustable trim tabs in foil, since they were not fabric covered. However, the trim tabs might have been painted using a similar color Aluminum, as was the color of the "Dope" that was applied on the fabric surfaces.

    Later model Mustangs had these moveable control areas covered with metal instead of fabric. It was also a "field kit" provided by the NAA Factory, that could have been applied to some older aircraft in the field, bringing these older Mustang airframes up to date.

    On this particular "Cripes-A-Mighty III" (the earlier D-5 version without the fin fillet), the elevators and rudder were fabric covered though.


    There was another later version of "Cripes-A-Mighty". It had a dorsal fin "strake", and the color Red was used on the rudder and several other places on the plane. This "last" Cripes-A-Mighty" was the aircraft that Major Preddy was killed in. I do have plans to build it up one day, and when I do, I will start a new build journal for it here on Imodeler.

    This is how Cripes-A-Mighty looks right now.


    Switching gears now, I'm talking about "LOU IV". I masked off the D Day Invasion stripes on the fuselage, since I was spraying Black and had it loaded in the air brush.

    You all are probably wondering why I an going through the trouble to paint on these stripes. The reason why is I have plans to spray on a very thin coat of Dark Blue on top of the stripes.


    If you look really close at the stripes on "LOU IV", they are still slightly visible in some places, especially at the wing root.

    It's also slightly visible (just barely) on the spine of the fuselage. This is the look I'm going for.

    I want to try and replicate this feature too. So I will try to spray them using a very thin coat of Dark Blue, so in theory, we will (hopefully) just barely be able to see the D Day stripes showing through from under the top coat.


    This is how "LOU IV" looks today.

    As always, comments are encouraged, and once again I thank you for stopping by. I hope to have another installment for you tomorrow evening. Good night everyone.

  • Profile Photo
    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    What more to say, my friend @lgardner, they look stunning!
    Keep up the fantastic work!

  • Profile Photo
    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Beautiful progress again, Louis @lgardner
    Would love to see how the striping of Lou IV will turn out.
    Being a pup on that picture does indeed show she is a big girl, a beautiful one.

  • Profile Photo
    George R Blair Jr said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Looks great, Louis (@lgardner), and the overspray should work fine. I have done similar on some of my previous models. I had the paint really thin, so I sprayed really thin layers using low air pressure, with some drying time in between. There is so much thinner in the mix that if you put it on too heavy you will flood the previous paint with thinner, which can have some bad results. The low pressure also really helps control the amount that goes on. Looking forward to seeing the magic at work on the invasion stripes.

    Good luck on your search for NMF replacements. Some of my decisions are based on what I can get around here. One of these days I will get brave enough with these metals to try an entire model. Nice picture of you fur-buddy. Remember not to try to lift...

  • Profile Photo
    Stephen W Towle said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    From looking at your two most recent posts of Lou IV with regards to the O.D paints there are three or four applications different O.D. paint. The wing fillet by the cockpit and the tail section is a very dark O.D. almost a black dark green or O.D.. The outer wings towards the alerions have another application of paint that has faded before the D-day stripes. While, another was applied after D-day with light O.D over spray of the D-day stripes.
    The paint over the wing fillet looks like it was applied with the some tape cut to form and the edges look crude weathered and worn.
    The Blue paint was sprayed after the D-day stripes but was on long enough to fade and get weathered. Maybe in conjunction with the over spray of the O.D. paint over the D-day stripes and when the ground crew ran out of O.D. paint stock and grabbed the blue paint which has is a flat color. Due to oxidation.

    Loui you can start with a base color of O.D. but, your really going to have to come up with 3 or 4 versions of the color. I really don't have a problem with postulating theories of paint based on photos. Everybody is expert but, it is more like taking wet toilet paper and throwing it up onto the ceiling, hoping it sticks. ( I work with kids . . . pencils too). Your kit will be documenting to a degree what the ground crew did to maintain the aircraft in theater.

    Another, thing to consider in your photo of the P-51 WR-P there appears to be a gloss finish on the inner wings and on the fuselage just ahead of the wind screen and aft of the cockpit. Which was applied more recently than the faded stuff. Could that gloss finish be from British paint? Later Mark Spitfires that left the factory with fresh paint had a gloss finish which faded or was maintained by the ground crew who waxed the aircraft surfaces or cleaned, sanded and hand polished the a/c as time allowed. Its never say never and if your doing a deep dive into specific P-51s and their pilots . . . something to consider. The more you know the more questions need to be asked. I think your safe with the more dull flat O.D. colors.

    Some of the best examples of infield paint touch up can be seen on photos of F-14s that have been deployed. With liberal applications of spray paint on panels and such. Mottling look.

  • Profile Photo
    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Spiros Pendedekas (@fiveten)
    Thanks Spiros !

    John vd Biggelaar (@johnb)
    I can't wait to see how it turns out either. I will follow George Blair's advice and do it in thin layers. Thanks for the compliment on my big girl dog. She really liked to have her picture taken. It seems as if she knew when you were getting ready to take a picture of her, as she would stop what she was doing and automatically pose for the photo. She was really good at catching a Frisbee too. She made me tired and had non stop energy. I never once saw her miss a catch either. Boy she could run ... Thanks 🙂

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Thanks for the advice on how to spray the Dark Blue color on top of the Invasion Stripes. Using a lower PSI will also be a good idea. Thanks for suggesting this.

    I think I might have had too much thinner (or I possibly might even have used regular automotive acrylic enamel paint reducer in the mix), when I sprayed the Black stripes on the flaps. It likely caused the Black paint I used for the stripes to wrinkle, which in turn caused me to eventually strip off all of the paint on both flaps. There was likely a reaction with either too much thinner as you mentioned, or possibly the acrylic enamel reducer was too "hot", and it could have lifted the White base coat under the Black stripes. So I have to be vey cautious at this point in the game. I don't want to ruin all of the work I have done so far.

    Yes sir, I am still being very cautious with my back. We are not fortunate to have any local brick and mortar type hobby shops near us anymore. So chances are I will have to make some online purchases for my next paint choices. I would much rather deal with a local business, but anymore that's not going to happen. The closest hobby shop is well over an hours drive away.

    My big girl was special, and a real cutie too. Thanks for the compliments on her.

    Stephen W Towle (@stephen-w-towle)
    I think you are spot on with your thoughts about the various different colors of Dark Green we see on "LOU IV". Never say never is a great way to think about things.

    I actually think the wing root filets could possibly have been painted using a Black paint. It's also possible this location was painted using a brush. This would explain the sharp edges we see on the sides of the fuselage.

    "LOU IV" went through a series of gradual changes once it was placed in service. On the earliest photo I posted of it, the compound curved metal fillet located just ahead of the wing at the wing root was also painted just like the rest of the wing root. Later on, we can clearly see it has either been replaced or stripped of paint and polished.

    The same thing goes for the Yellow nose and spinner. In the earliest photos, you can still see the Dark Green anti glare panel ahead of the windscreen. The Yellow on the nose was no where as big as the last pictures we see where the majority of the nose was painted Yellow.

    I believe it also sported full wrap around style D Day Invasion Stripes at some point, but I have never seen any photos of it in this configuration.

    Yes, I do think anything is possible as far as the use of British paints.


    I found this Dupont "colour" chart online, I think it was from Rato's modelling website when he had posted a fabulous article on the colors used on the Curtiss P-40's that were used by the AVG in China.

    He also has this excellent reference for RAF colors.
    http://www.ratomodeling.com.br/articles/RAF_skies/

    Rato is a good fellow. I sent him some of the childhood pictures I had (that both my Dad and I took), of Harry Doan's F4U-1 Corsair and this along with what I told him about the airplane during the 1970's and early 1980's helped to fill in the blanks on it's missing history. He has that story listed on his website too.


    I have copies of the actual Air Ministries orders saved on my computer about how the paint finish was supposed to sanded smooth and the leading edges of the wings were smoothed in a similar manner to what was used on the Mustang. This is one of the pages that was uncovered by the late Edgar Brooks.

    But like you mentioned, once any aircraft has been in service, and especially in harsh environments, all bets are off as far as the use of colors, sanding / polishing etc.

    A great example of this is to look at some of the photos of Corsairs as they served in the South Pacific islands.

    Thanks for commenting, and I hope to hear from you again soon.

    Now I have another update coming right up, so please stay tuned. Thanks !

  • Profile Photo
    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Here is what I managed to get done today on the Mustang builds.



    I tried to cover the inside of the landing gear doors using foil. Because of the multiple curves on the inside, I was not able to successfully do it. So instead I ended up spraying on some Molotow on the inside. This is how it looks at the moment. Chances are I will knock down the shine a little before I call it done.


    Since I was spraying the Molotow, I decided to go ahead and paint the radiator housing.

    The exit ramp was also sprayed, but only on the inside.

    The "clam shell" door actuator hydraulic cylinders were cleaned up, and I sprayed the cylinder ram portion with Molotow as well.

    I wrapped the main landing gear oleo struts in "Ultra Bright Chrome" bare metal foil. I started working on the brake lines, and now have the wires ready to start making the bends and final installation. I left the "Black" insulation intact, so it will represent the flexible rubber portion of the brake lines.


    I applied foil to the flaps for "Cripes-A-Mighty III". Once this was completed, the flaps were installed. I chose to use the ones provided in the kit for the "dropped" or "Lowered" position, as this is how the Merlin powered Mustangs looked after sitting a while. The flaps and clam shell doors would drop as the hydraulic pressure bled off.




    Here's how Major Preddy's Mustang looks now.


    I also had these color chips stored on my computer. These were part of the last book on colors that were written by Dana Bell. These are the color chips for American camouflage colors. You can see how several of the Dark Green colors from both these color chips and a few from the British "colours" could have been used.

    As Steven Towle stated, never saw never.

    As always, comments are encouraged. Thanks for stopping by.

    I hope to have another installment up tomorrow evening. Good night.