1:48 Hasegawa/Eduard Hellcat – Mojo Recovery Project

Started by Don Mk1a · 80 · 5 years ago
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    George R Blair Jr said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Congrats on retiring. I had some problems adjusting to retirement also. During the 40 years I was working I would look forward to having the time to do all those things that I didn't have enough time to do when I was working. The problem was that I never thought about retirement in specific terms, so my retirement plans were things like "do some modeling", "do some traveling", "relax", and other nonspecific goals. So when I finally retired I panicked and worried about not being able to fill my time. I probably finished 30 projects around the house during the first month I was retired. I figured I was obsessing and was going to burn out if I didn't figure this thing out. Things got a lot better after I slowed down and settled into a routine. It also really helped to get into better physical shape (I walk 3 miles every morning & lost 90 lbs) which also gets you into a better mental space. I also expanded my hobbies, including photography and painting (pictures, not models). Modeling got a lot more enjoyable when I slowed down on my building and quit obsessing about trying to build the perfect model. Retirement is different for everyone and I am sure you will figure everything out.

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    Greg Kittinger said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Welcome back! We all have our own demons that attempt to meddle, and our vulnerabilities are so myriad that I won't try to prescribe a remedy. However, I will tout the value of wrestling in "public" with those modeling demons, as the support & encouragement here a iModeler is some of the absolute best therapy available! It is a safe place, and these comrades seem to know just what you need in a given moment - a push to get through, some insight to solve a problem, a shoulder to cry on, an unorthodox perspective to gladden the heart!

    I'm looking forward to watching your builds materialize.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Retirement is as significant a 'life change' as adolescence, I think. And we all know how complicated that all got! lol Yes, you are right, George, I'll figure it out sooner or later. Thanks for the kind words.

    And Greg also, thanks for the support. I'm looking forward to seeing something happen too!

    Not tonight though. Today has been a busy family day and there hasn't been a lot of modelling time. I applied another layer of the acrylic putty on those panel lines on the cowling but when I sanded it down it was still below surface level. Acrylic is a word that I am beginning to think means "a substitute for a tried and trusted product that will cost more and do a worse job."

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    So I filled them in with superglue instead and that seems to have worked. It looks bad because the superglue is clear but I believe it's level. Primer will reveal all!

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    david leigh-smith said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Share the pain, Don. We are all here with you - as Greg says, getting your demons out in public is a great way to learn in a safe place. For me, I’d much, much rather watch someone struggle through a WiP than see a beautiful and flawless creation.

    Bring it on, Don.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    I'm fairly confident that you won't see a beautiful and flawless creation emerging from this WIP David, struggle and strife are much more likely.

    Imps. I think imps is more apt than demons. Until I start sniffing the glue, that is...

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    I'd hoped to be airbrushing today but no go. I got sidetracked by sub-assemblies and its too hot and humid for painting anyway.

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    A little more fettling of the cowling was needed to thin the trailing edge in order to make a separation with the fuselage.

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    That's better!

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    I assembled the engine in two parts, cylinders and crankcase, ready for paint. I'm adding nothing extra to the donk, no wiring etc. Not this one. I tried the fit onto the fuselage and found that it didn't seat properly due to that ejector pin mark in the rear of the firewall. That has been removed and with a bit of luck the whole thing, engine, cowling and prop, will be square and true.

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    Time to find me a pilot. I wasted ages looking for a USN figure before I remembered that I'm doing FAA aircraft! I'm always surprised how much figures vary in size.

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    This is the one I'll be using.

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    He is a little short because neither seat nor pilot had the parachute pack included. I glued in a couple of pieces of sprue to jack up my Jolly Jack Tar.

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    and then made certain that the canopy would close over his head!

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    some panels were added to the center section and I had to find out what that opening was under the belly. It turned out to be the supercharger spill outlet so there wont be much muck coming from there when I get to weathering.

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    Scissor links added to the u/c legs on the sprue made it easier to align them correctly. I noticed that the locating pins are too long and needed trimming. Perhaps the holes have lost depth as the moulds wore down in use? The kit was introduced in 1995 and then repackaged FIFTEEN more times with new decals/parts until mine was made in 2005. The Eduard kits were released in 2008. It will be fun to see how they compare with a thirteen year gap.

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    Exhaust stubs drilled out. Could be thinner but good enough for this one!

    Painting tomorrow? It's forecast to be the hottest day ever in the UK so probably not.

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    George R Blair Jr said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Things are coming together nicely. It is amazing how much humidity will affect the paint coming from an airbrush. I live in South-Central Texas where the humidity is normally at least 50 percent, and usually much higher. Air conditioning helps to pull some of the water out of the air, but you still have to be careful. Your work on the fiddly bits looks great. I really like WW2 Fleet Air Arm camouflage, so I am looking forward to see this one done.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Thanks for the encouragement George. Yes, the paint on these cabs was very interesting. The aircraft were built by Grumman and painted with paints made in America, sometimes specially mixed to resemble the British colours and sometimes using the closest available match. Grumman didn't import paint from Britain for sure. There's a ton of discussion on the subject over on Britmodeller (two 'l's). Sometimes though, these debates get a bit too pedantic for my taste. I know that there were detailed specifications and records of these survive. Also I know that in a busy factory no-one was going to reject an aircraft because the grey was a little bit too red. So I will give myself as much artistic licence I want.

    I'll use something close to the US colours such as olive drab and then I can do touch-ups in the British slate grey. Also, I'm pretty certain that paints in the 1940s faded fast, especially in a tropical maritime environment. That's when they weren't darkened by being wiped over with waste oil to keep the salty water off them. I'll be modulating, fading and dirtying everything anyway!

    I also believe in scale effect, which you don't hear about much these days. For those unfamiliar with this idea the thinking goes that a 1/48 model is viewed from 2 feet away so the colours should look like they are nearly a hundred feet away. Far off colours are a bit less saturated and a little blue to the eye. Whites are blue grey and blacks are dark grey. This is why I think pure black or white look wrong on a model. It's a personal taste thing, I know.

    These are the four schemes that I'll be 'representing'.

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    The first one. This is the Hasegawa kit as a Hellcat II. Eduard call this colour Navy Blue but isn't it something like Semi-Gloss Sea Blue? Anyway, blue all over so easy for number 1 model of the New Age of Smith. Ha! This is the almost OOB kit with closed canopy, pilot figure as in the old days of my modelling, rockets and a belly tank. I think it's a bit dull but the white stripes will add some interest. This was a tough paint designed for the ocean life so not too much fading.

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    2. Olive Drab and Grey (of some kind) over a greyish version of sky. Much faded. Another dullish scheme so I'll do a bunch of chipping to zinc chromate primer and then touch ups and so on. This is the Eduard weekend edition. Again pretty well OOB but I'll make a wiring harness, seatbelts etc from whatever I can find. Old fashioned extras.

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    Number Three. Operation Hoops. Carrier based attacks on German forces in occupied Norway May 1944. This aircraft shot down a FW190 and a He115. So no belly tank on this one. Now I'm onto the Eduard profipack editions; photoetch! resin! Complicated stuff. This time I'll try to find some paint that's closer to the British 'official' colours, just to keep the shelf interesting.

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    Finally (!) No4. It's got a red nose and striped pyjamas. I guess the FAA had this for at least a year before D-day so I'm claiming that it was resprayed in the proper UK colour at some time. I will have fun with the stripes which I'm betting were nowhere near as tidy as this picture suggests. (Sorry about the orientation) This will be, with luck, the victory over the imps of ennui who have held up my model making for so long. I'll build it in whatever way pleases me the most. Probably without the photoetch, especially the pieces that I can't actually see.

    (All 4 of these will have the cockpit in the RAF/RN interior green, not the US bright green version. Apparently that was how they were delivered.)

    It's been too hot here to do anything except research and planning, sorry.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Figure painting time. Horrors! How do those people who specialise in figures do it so well? Shaking hands and diminished eyesight aren't a great help either. However, I have saved myself the effort of installing seatbelts in the Hellcat. Lol indeed.

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    This is a self portrait of the moment when I approached the bench last night.

    I'm actually really impressed by the sculpting and moulding of the head, face and chest of this pilot, considering the size of the piece. It's noticeable that the standard of moulding falls off with distance from the face, the lower torso being a bit blobby. I note this but I'm not complaining because it was intended to be buried in a cockpit where this will be shrouded in gloom. It's simply an artist somewhere being efficient. I think we should give more credit to the commercial artists that sculpt our models. CAD or not, it's a wonderful thing that they do for us.

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    This is the finished "lil' bloke". It's good enough. The canopy is going to be closed and this model is supposed to be a gentle return to the hobby without perfectionism stopping me in my tracks.

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    One thing that does please my parsimonious part, is that i used these paints...

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    Student quality acrylic paint from the stationer's shop. Only sixteen pounds for 24 tubes of undiluted colours. It makes me wonder why I ever thought it necessary to own a hundred bottles of Vallejo paints for my brush painting. The collector's instinct? Greed? Gulibility? Is this why the Tamiya paint range is so 'limited'? Because we don't actually need more colours than enough. We just have to mix them. Hmmm... I bet that thought would rattle a few cages at Mr Colour, AK, Vallejo, Testors, etc, etc, etc.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    I need to make my photos smaller!

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    I did a quick comparison between the Hasegawa and Eduard mouldings. Remember that the moulds were made thirteen years apart. Hase in grey, Eduard in green plastic.

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    I was really surprised. There's not as much difference as I had expected. In some areas, such as the instrument panel, the later moulding seems inferior. The engine is about the same, but has lost its spark plugs. Tailwheel and u/c bays pretty mush the same and in the case of the main gear bays, neither is a particularly good representation of the real thing in my view.

    Of course, I am only comparing plastic and the Eduard kit is the cheaper weekend edition. The Profipack has a shedful of extras: resin wheels, photoetch AND decal instrument panels, ignition harness and so forth. That's where they added value and raised the price. We shall see if this added complexity enhances or detracts from my pleasure as the project goes on.

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    Here's one area of useless over-complication as far as I'm concerned. I always hated 'moveable control surfaces' when I was a kid; at best they only moved a few times before falling off, rarely moving at all, given my enthusiasm for the cement tube. Now we have 'poseable' surfaces instead, or as in this case simply separated surfaces. (They can be posed in different positions if you cut the large locating tabs off, of course.) The thing is, how often do you see deflected control surfaces in the real world of aircraft? Pilots lock them into position before leaving the cockpit so that they aren't blown around by the wind and damaged while the aircraft is parked as most of our models are displayed. I think deflections only make sense in dioramas depicting maintenance of the flying control system; actual flying, start up or taxiing operations; and crashed or derelict aircraft. Otherwise, it's just breaking the model down into more pieces so that it looks better on the box "New 1:72 Spitfire! 560 parts! (Not suitable for children.)"

    (Apologies for picture orientation. They are the right way up on my laptop)

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    Erik Gjørup said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    I need to make my photos smaller!
    you say - I usually make mine 1200 wide, that makes them a useable size for the screen, and they are fast to upload.

    Apologies for picture orientation
    - what do you use to take them? I have no experience with smartphones, but as far as I know (AFAIK for future purposes) if you take the picture with the phone "laying down", it will be posed that way too? - I may very well be wrong here!

    Anyway, no matter the format, keep the posts coming - followed with interest!

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Hi Erik, I've been using my iPhone. the pictures are oriented correctly on my pc, rotate 90 degrees on transfer to iModeller and then sometimes, but not always, correct themselves. There's no way on the phone to reduce the picture size and if I am to keep building, I haven't time to edit them on the laptop. I'll switch to my old SLR camera tomorrow and see if that's any better.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    I could no longer put it off. I was at the crossroads. If today went well, I knew I would finish not just this bird but ALL of them. If today was to go awry, I'd likely never build another model. Da da daaaaaaah!

    First Challenge: Airbrushing.

    That heaven or hell technique. When it's good it's very, very good but when it's bad...

    I couldn't revert to spraying Humbrol enamels as I haven't got an extraction system and didn't want to destroy the dog's sense of smell. Also, it's so long since i have sprayed Humbrol, I'd likely mess it up anyway.

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    This was the set up. I didn't do the washing up, I just moved it out of shot! Note the essential plug rammed tightly into the drain!

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    Materials. The paint is a half bottle of Sky with a little darker green added. To be honest, Sky would have been acceptable to me but later kits in the series will have Sky on the outside and I want some variation in shades. X-20A thinner because it's the lightest smell. I have Tamiya Lacquer thinner, which I prefer apart from the smell and price. I think it gives a tougher finish when applying direct to plastic.

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    It went like a dream. I missed the noise of extraction fans but that was quite pleasant really. The window was open and the draught was blowing outwards today, so the smell was minimal. The finish was fine and appeared tough enough. I practiced on a scrap piece from the spares box, always good insurance.

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    Clean up was easy using neat Isopropyl Alcohol. I sprayed a couple of loads through the brush and out of the window before stripping down for the full clean. I buy this stuff by the gallon from Amazon, which makes it very cheap.

    So, I passed that part of the test.

    Second Challenge: Detail painting.

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    Shall I squawk like a Rhode Island Red and use the transfer? It's not bad but it is old and the panel is bumpy. And anyway, I want to know if I can still paint a cockpit.

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    Yes I can. I give myself 6/10 for this one as I didn't bother with washes or placards or anything other than that artist's paint and some very fine brushes. And why bother? With Flt Lt 'Tubby' Lardarse in the cockpit, you ain't going to notice.

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    As you see, or rather, don't.

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    I've had to cut his feet off, but that's hardly noticeable. He's glued in position after yet another check that the canopy will close over him. Tomorrow, when its all hardened, I'll fit the stick and gunsight and zip up the fuselage halves.

    A good day.

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    George R Blair Jr said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Everything looks great. The cockpit looks awesome as it is. I tend to shy away from putting figures in my plane because I just can't do a good job on them. I suppose if I practiced some more things might be better, but at my age there is only so much I can see and do. I do some oil painting, so I have a bunch of tubes of oil paint, but I have never used them for my models. I tend to use the products from Vallejo and AK for panels and washes, etc. I have tried several ways to do photos, but have settled on using my iPhone just for the ease of use. The photos from my phone rival the quality I get from my digital camera without having to do a bunch of setup. I have found that you have to correct the orientation of photos before you import them into iModeler. I haven't found a way to fix them afterwards. I have never thought about changing the size of my photos, but maybe it's something worth looking at. Looking forward to the rest of your build.