A Faireytail – 1:48 Tamiya Swordfish Mk.II

Started by Aleksandar Sekularac · 31 · 5 years ago · Bi-Wing, Fairey, Stringbag, WWII
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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    Yes, this is how we spell it round‘ere!

    The Swordfish Mk.II was my first time kit award on iModeler (https://imodeler.com/2018/02/model-of-the-month-dec-17-fish-on-a-string-and-sword-in-a-bag/), so it is only proper to show you what I will do to her here.

    Not only that, but it is also my first Fairey aircraft and with that my first „Fish“ ever. I know, can’t believe it either!

    Tamiya kit is well known, so is the subject, so no need for a lengthy introduction, I think.

    The venerable Stringbag is not the sexiest thing that ever flew but in the Fairey realm it is actually quite a looker! I fetched few extras to bring its appeal to the higher level: Eduard’s p/e set, Tamiya’s metal rigging and Quickboost’s “porcupine” exhaust pipe. I strongly believe that one is better served if not using hundreds of extras available for any given kit. This said all of the mentioned sets offer some specific improvements to the kit, so I intend to pick and choose my fav details here, the spoilt scallywag I am…

    One thing all aftermarket sets ignore are the leading edge slats, moulded shut in the Tamiya kit, but should be extended if the plane is on the ground. So I cut the open, but only after I glued upper and lower wing surfaces together.

    This being an old school bi-wing, the crew of three was seated in a maze of struts and frames, all well represented in the kit. Tamiya successfully made a near snap-tight affair of the whole. Only a few photo-etched plates and instruments and the pre-painted seatbelts enhance the look in the office. I first painted the canvas panels on the inner fuselage flanks, representing the bleed of red oxide primer through the fabric regularly seen on these birds. After some dull masking the rest was painted “interior green” with floor panels in nekkid metal. The forward firing gun was also enhanced with the perforated cooling sleeve made of rolled p/e piece.

    So much for the beginning. Stay tuned till the next episode when I will be talking about a flying horse and that Townend ring I like so much…

    Cheers,
    Aleks

    10 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Greg Kittinger said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    That is amazing work! The cockpit cage has more parts then the Tony I'm finishing now... Love all the details. Looking forward to following along...

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    Cheers Greg! I'll try not to disappoint. 😉

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    David A. Thomas said 5 years, 6 months ago:

    Beautiful work, Aleksandar!

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Pegasus is a stunning winged white stallion. Where its hoofs hit the ground fresh water wells up. He is quite a horse, you see…

    Unfortunately Pegasus doesn’t exist, it’s a myth… “Fake news!”, to use the parlance of our times. Disappointing, I know!

    Bristol Pegasus is however real and did bring many ol’ flyers to the stormy skies. Here's the Tamiya 1:48 version, enhanced by some photo-etched bits, Archer Fine Transfer rivets, Quickboost exhaust pipe, painted by mix of AK Interactive and Alclad metallics, plus some Tamiya paints and layers chipped using Ammo chipping fluid. These exhaust collector rings up front provide a great canvas for some fun with the heat-stressed metal hues.

    Must be kinky or something, but I just can’t resist a radial engines tightly wrapped in Townend ring…
    Cheers,
    Aleks

    10 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    George R Blair Jr said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Awesome job, Aleksandar. Painting the collector rings around the engine is always a mystery to me, and you have captured it perfectly.

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 5 months ago:

    Thanks George!
    I am also very pleased how it all looks, particularly as this was an experiment. The new generation of hobby paints and products, chipping fluid included, makes it really easy and fun to try new techniques.

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    The Fish is back, after considerable pause that includes summer vacation and other extracurricular activities - resulting in my absence from the bench at most of times.

    This time around I am stuck in drawn-out process of small corrections, improvements and preparations for later work. With bi-wing aircraft painting is always a problem, considering that the inner surfaces of the wing and fuselage sandwiched between the wings cannot be painted effectively after assembly. So covering them in paint separately is the only option, which implies that everything needs to fit perfectly once the time finally comes to glue the pieces together.

    And then there’s the rigging… Tamiya produced this kit to make it easy to build, but at the some point this effort started to limit the ultimate result that can be achieved with it… Let me explain. There are mounting slots left for the use of extra set of metal rigging wires. I obtained the rigging set intending to use it with the kit, but after some tests decided it is quite bad. Yes, I used the “B” word with the “T” company and I ain’t talkin’ of Trumpeter. This set is supposed to make the effort easy and also to better represent flat, two dimensional, strings used on British bi-wings. Unfortunately, the metal strips are hopelessly over-dimensioned for 1:48 (looking more like struts) and even worse, they warp and bend under even the slightest flex of the plastic wing elements, completely ruining the illusion of tension. So, thank you very much, I will be making my Fish with traditional rigging after all.

    Only now I first had to deal with trenches left where the metal wiring was supposed to anchor in the wing! Filling seams between wing struts was a lot of fun and resulted in one of the struts breaking in the process. So there was more fun to be had by reattaching broken strut pieces.

    This work gave me the idea to separate all the strut fairings on the opposite wing joint and provide them with pin connections made from copper wire. So more of micro-drilling and fine dry-fitting to be done…

    The labor will continue, as I go through fabricating small anchor loops for all the rigging points and making sure everything stays straight and true./Users/Alek/Models/Swordfish/Male/Fish-56.jpg

    …till the next time…

    11 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Erik Gjørup said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    @asekular, nice to see you are back at the bench. The attention to detail is great - will follow this one with interest.

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Cheers Erik!
    Nice to have you with me on this journey. @airbum

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    George R Blair Jr said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Looking forward to watching the rigging come together. I purposely avoid biplanes because I can't make the rigging look right. I'm taking notes on how you do this so I can eventually try your techniques on one of my biplane kits that are on my "build someday" list".

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    david leigh-smith said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Glad to see you back at this beastie, Aleks. Lots of nice creative project management advice here, which is always satisfying to read as a modeler. I think that with biplanes you need to use your brain differently, thinking less linear anymore organically...like you are solving a puzzle at the same time as building a model.

    Very well done to a very high standard.

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    Don Mk1a said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Nice one! You have the collector ring looking just right to my eyes. I'n fact, the entire engine is a marvel. I haven't seen those decal rivets before. Interesting.

    I like the revised break points on the struts. It's a clever way to avoid difficult puttying and sanding. 10/10

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 4 months ago:

    Thank you George, David and Don! I appreciate you following my ramblings…

    @gblair Haven’t done much of rigging myself in recent years, so this is as much a training for my fingers, as anything else. And then one day, as I transcend to the next level I may tackle Zeppelin Staaken, or a Caudron G.IV…

    @dirtylittlefokker David my friend, you speak true… using both lobes of the grey stuff: ventral and dorsal! 😉

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    Aleksandar Sekularac said 5 years, 3 months ago:

    Greetings iModelites!

    Last time I left the things with a notion of making all the small attachment points for the rigging of the String Bag and preparing the rest of the surface detail for priming. Somewhat tedious but absolutely doable task. I planned initially to make the anchors for the rigging myself, using twisted copper wire, but then remember Eduard p/e set for turnbuckles and other connection that was sitting in my drawer for number of years now. This set showed itself very useful – each turnbuckle cut in two and made into anchors for the rigging wires to come later…

    All the subassemblies were then cleaned and primed with Grey Surfacer 1200. I considered if I should use black primer, but since my Fish will be in an all-black disguise, grey base will allow for some more tonal variation and contrast to play with. Grey primer also reveals detail and imperfections much better than black, at least for my eyes.

    This time around I stumbled across a very strange phenomenon while spraying the S-1200. Spider web structures were building up against the details, wherever the secondary flow of air and paint would reach them (see pictures)! I never saw this behavior before and cannot explain why it happened now. I always use the same parameters for spraying and this wasn’t the new jar of Surfacer either. These curious threads were quite easy to remove using a large brush, leaving the surface and the details immaculate. Also, due to the fact that most of the excess particles of S-1200 were caught in these spider webs, it left almost no airborne pollution, which is usual consequence of me spraying Surfacer using a large gun (0.4mm nozzle). This is a welcome benefit of this unusual effect that I will have to investigate further…

    Once the model was primed and it looked like it was made in a CAD program, I knew I did a good job and it was time to turn to some paint. For a while now I was itching to break out my prized red metal box with the Iwata cm-c plus and make tight squiggles with it. MRP Nato Black would be a perfect medium to try this and lay a marbling coat for my Fish. I should probably make a separate article elsewhere on iModeler, with a back-to-back comparison of the CM-C plus and H&S Infinity, which I also have, but at this point let me just use a parallel with another Japanese icon, if only from a world of movies. Hattori Hanzo is a fictional sword maker from the Tarantino’s film Kill Bill. This is what he says after presenting his blade to the new owner: „If, on your journey you should encounter God, God will be cut.“ I learned that the same level of performance and confidence (and pleasure) one can expect from CM-C plus…

    Nato Black is not a true black, but more of a dark grey/brown hue. After a dense marbling of all surfaces with this color I turned to Tamiya X-18, for a semi-transparent, unifying coat. I also masked off all the metal surfaces while spraying, to make a hard demarcation from the canvas covered areas. The result is a very interesting and dynamic tonal variation of almost black hues, that perhaps doesn’t translate so well on photographs, as it does to the naked eye. I am very curious where this journey will take me, when I try to weather this paint finish.

    Next time I will be applying white invasion stripes, using a hand brush to mimic the real life irregularities. Stay tuned…

    Cheers,
    Aleks

    12 attached images. Click to enlarge.