Airfix 1/48 P-40B Warhawk

Started by George R Blair Jr · 118 · 2 years ago · 1/48, Airfix, P-40B, Warhawk
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    Louis Gardner said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    George, @gblair
    Thank you very much for posting the detailed essay on how you went about achieving this worn / faded look. I am really liking how it looks, and you're not even done yet ! I have used the Tamiya weathering decks and Q-tips to add effects such as dust and to mimic how paint fades.

    Olive drab during the early part of WW2 was not very durable, according to what I have read that Dana Bell has written on the subject. I have a very good set of books published that he authored, that are called "Air Force Colors". They are broken down into 3 different volumes. One section is dedicated to the "Home Front".

    I also have another book that was written by the late Jeff Etthels. His book contains a bunch of fantastic color pictures of the various planes and the pictures were taken from around the world.

    After looking at these P-40 photos, and remembering the pictures I mentioned in the books listed above, you are well on the way to achieving a very authentic look. I also believe that since you have personally spent time flying as a military pilot, from the very same airbase that this plane you are building was located, I think you have a very good idea as to how it should look.

    I have always wanted to build up another Stateside training plane every since I saw this color photo. This P-38H was flown out of Orlando Army Airfield during WW2.


    It has a similar battered look, and you can see how some areas were touched up in this next photo.

    I have read that on these P-38's, they had fuel tanks located in the leading edge of the wing, and this often caused nightmares for the ground crews.

    Now that Tamiya has come out with the 1/48 scale limited edition "white box" version of the P-38H, (which this plane is in these photos), I have plans to someday build up the Lightning shown here. Florida was a very busy place during the War, training thousands of young men and women how to fly. I am fascinated with the history from this region, since I grew up here.

    I have scrounged up a set of decals for this exact same P-38, from Scott Zuiebeck who owns / operated "RebelAlpha" store on EBay. How cool would it be to build all three planes in the last picture ? It's tempting... 😉

    When the time comes, I will definitely refer back to what you have done with your P-40.

    It is really looking good !

    Thanks again, and stay safe.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanks, Louis (@lgardner). Your pictures are exactly the effect I am going for. It is fairly difficult to find photos of WW2 planes that were used stateside as trainers, you really have to be creative in your searches. I have better luck finding photos in some of my books. I like building WW2 trainers because they are usually painted a little differently than operational fighters. After spending 10 years as an instructor in T-37s and 6 years as an instructor in C-141s, I have a weakness for trainers. Like you, I think it would be cool to do all three planes in the photo, although the decals might be tough to find. Maybe some masks and airbrushed markings? I have the three books on Air Force Colors, but they are packed up awaiting the move. Your photos do confirm my suspicion that the Air Corps didn't waste much money on repaints for these planes. Many of the WW2 trainers you see in photos all display some degree of fading and weathering. Rebelalpha is one of my "go-to" places on Ebay. He seems to have some of the weird stuff that no one else has. Cheers.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    You are doing some fantastic painting/weathering with your P-40, my friend @gblair! Nice to read all info and thoughts on olive drab. Our friend @lgardner, once again, came with amazing info.
    Looking forward to this super P-40!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Your work on weathering effects is very realistic George @gblair
    I will definitely write down your info and give it a try myself.
    Never used this kind of worn liquid myself.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). Worn Effects and Chipping Fluid is fun to use. It is like the old "hairspray" method, but more controllable. I was thinking the fragility of the Mission Models paint was a negative, but I started thinking that you could get some great effects, if you can control it.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    The plan today was to get some Tamiya Clear Gloss on the plane in anticipation of the decals, and then let it sit for a while. I always let the clear coats dry at least 24 hours. In the past, I have had the decal setting chemicals react with the clear coat if you don't let it fully cure. I haven't had any problems since I started waiting 24 hours. Then I wait another 24 hours after applying the decals. Then I apply the clear flat coat, and wait another 24 hours. My 20 years in the military trained me for this: Hurry up and wait.

    Speaking of hurrying, I missed a step that complicated the painting. I forgot that this plane had a yellow and black band that goes partially around the nose, just ahead of the lower intake. It would have been much easier to paint and mask before the olive drab was applied, but that horse had already left the barn. My only excuse is that I was in a hurry to try some new painting techniques. (That's my story, and I'm sticking to it). So, I had to apply a lot of tape over paint that had previously pulled up after applying tape. No real option, so Tamiya tape was applied to the area. Yellow paint is tough to paint on dark colors, so I sprayed a thin coat of Tamiya Flat White over the area. Once the white had dried, I sprayed Tamiya Flat Yellow over the area. After the yellow had dried, I masked the yellow area and applied some Tamiya Flat Black. I added a little light gray to the black, and then painted a random pattern to age the black a little.





    Once all of this was dry, I carefully removed the masking tape. No damage, so the offerings to the masking tape gods paid off. I sprayed a couple of coats of Tamiya Clear Gloss, well-thinned with X20A Thinner. The biggest problem I had at this stage was trying to keep cat hairs off the model while it dried. After the clear dries for 24 hours I will apply the decals.

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    Andrew H said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Looking great George! I expect that a round of oil weathing is due...? A little bit of weathering will go along way to help accentuate the fine base work you've produced. Looking forward to more progress!

    I've used a technique on some builds too where I take a thinned down drab color and mottle it on lightly to separate panels or leading edges to define some wear or touch-up's. Once you accept the fact that an OD service a/c was hardly ever uniform, it opens up your artistic rendition to a new world of "that may not be right, but it's perfectly imperfect".

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    The "yellow/black band application before painting" horse might have left the barn, but the horse that remained got the job done perfectly, my friend @gblair!
    Great that no paint liftoff took place!
    Decalling could not be that far away...

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Maybe not sprayed in the correct "easiest" order, the outcome is very nice George @gblair
    Also the repaired/replaced panels do look great.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanks, Andrew (@pb_legend), Spiros (@fiveten), and John (@johnb). Weathering using artist oils will be coming. There are several effects I am trying to replicate. We'll see how it goes after the decals.

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    John Healy said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Great paintwork and weathering, George.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@j-healy).

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Today was decal day. The decals came from Wolfpack, and they performed very well. They were thin, and were easy to position on the model. They didn't have a tendency to fold up on themselves, which is always a plus. I used MicroSol and MicroSet to help settle the decals on the plane. Next step: 24 hours for the decals to dry, check to see if they need any more attention, then some clear flat. Cheers.

    3 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Beautiful decalling, George @gblair
    Small indeed and still readible, so much improvement on decal quality over the years.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). You are right about the quality of decals. I may complain about decals sometimes, but they are light years ahead of the old ones.