@johnb - that rigging looks like it was done by someone who's made 50 excellent rigged biplane models. The piece de resistance on this superb model.

John you can easily be satisfied from what I see in the pictures. Looking forward to the last bits 🙂

@airbum, Thanks Erik. Although not straightforward for my modelling skills, I'm pretty satisfied for the current progress.

@luftwaffe-birdman, Thanks a lot. Likely I will not build another bi-plane shortly, but you never know.

@j-healy, Thanks John. Yes, the kit is really great, nice fit and nice details. Good tip for the Blenheim, saw this warbird demonstrating in Duxford 2019. It is a beauty.

2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Thank you all, for the encouraging words.

This time just a small update.

Not sure how to call these parts, but they are intended to hold the crossing wires together.

I used thin metal wire and glued them with CA.

Fuselage gunner positions are opened as well.

After other touch-ups I gave the Walrus a clear coat prior to decalling.

Although the coating states 'quick dry', it takes at least 24 hours to fully dry.

Bottomside decalling is quickly done since no decals there.

Just catching up with the build, John. Excellent work on the painting and rigging. As others have said, your are doing some really impressive work - including spacer details! - that suggests you are a veteran biplane builder. The one thing that those who rig often say is the difficulty of keeping all the "wires" tightly stretched when they potentially pull against each other. With stretched sprue rigging, I have heard of modelers holding a lit cigarette or hot match head close to the line to get it to tighten up with the heat. You apparently would have no need of this on your Walrus model. I have quite a pile of biplanes in my stash, not to mention extensively rigged flying boats like the Mavis and Emily. Your efforts are real inspiration to finally get these built. BTW, I always give clear coats about 48 hours to set properly before decaling or an oil wash. Coatings like Tamiya Clear seem to need longer to resist finger prints and damage from decal water.

John, great update! Those "bulletshaped" thingies are most often found when the "wires" are actually "flat oval" lengths of metal. Sometimes they are also seen as "sticks" going all the way between the crosses front and back on a rigging. They are there to keep the movement at bay, as the "wires" are semi-airfoilshaped, not really to keep the wires from rubbing (they should be tensioned sufficiently to avoid that). One instance where you can see the full-length stick used is in the Stearman.

I had the pleasure of being around one of these for a lot of years - here we are pulling it out for run-up after the winter.

As the wires on the stearman are not really close due to the stagger and the anchorpoints, it makes perfect sense here to make good use of the full-length stick-type

I hope this explanation and the pictures makes sense @johnb, if further is needed just send me a PM and I shall try to deepen.

Your build makes a lot of progress, and I shall be looking forward to this very nice "hydrobipe" in the headlines soon! 🙂