Arma Hobby 1/72 FM-2 Wildcat

Started by George R Blair Jr · 83 · 1 month ago · 1/72, Arma Hobby, FM-2 Wildcat
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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Engine looks great George (@gblair). I was looking at those small ladder shaped PE parts and thinking to myself that perhaps I will wait a couple of days until you get past this point before I return to my cruiser build, because I am going to be doing a lot of the same tiny tiny stuff soon enough.

    I was also noticing the different ways you are holding the model with clamps and clothespins. One of the challenges I continue struggling with is finding a way to keep odd shaped pieces from sliding around on the cutting mat (which is quite slippery) while I try to do various things to them.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Awesome job, my friend @gblair! Great that you were able to finally tackle that nasty PE.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    A bit of a challenging day, George @gblair
    That engine piece is indeed very small.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). I finally got through the PE in the cockpit and got to a place I could deal with some of the bigger plastic parts. I hope to be in a place where I can mask and start painting soon.

    Hi Carl (@clipper): Well that was weird. I got a notification yesterday that you had replied to this thread, but it didn't pop up to read until this morning. The notification system barely works for me, but it has never done this before. Anyway, lately I have been trying to find ways to better hold things and to deal with small parts. The bar clamps I have are great for larger parts. These are the type that you can get a Home Depot or Lowes to hold wood together, but they are the very smallest size. I have found 3 different sizes of clothes pins that work great and are a lot easier on the plastic than other clamps. I also have alligator clips, but they can be rough on plastic and often distort the pieces I am bonding. Tape is my "go-to" for a lot of tasks, but you have to be careful not to let liquid cement seep under the tape. This happens more than I care to admit. Tiny parts of PE are a whole different problem. You would think that superglue would hold anything, but small PE often eludes the ability of superglue to hold in place. I like some of the new specialized white glue that is designed for PE, but it still has problems if there is only a tiny amount of surface area for gluing. The APD had several of those tiny ladder-shaped PE pieces and I had unsuccessfully experimented with ways to glue them. At times I could get them attached to the model, but even the tiniest amount of handling would cause them to pop free. That is what I envisioned when I saw the wiring harness for the engine with its tiny attachment points, so I decided to save myself a possible stroke and leave them off. The engine looked pretty detailed already. I am counting on you to solve this problem so I can one day return to the APD and its tiny PE parts.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I don't know if I have any better answers regarding gluing of PE, George (@gblair). I have found that for the ladders , for example, that the best thing is to use the super thin glue and let it wick into position, but this creates puddles that need to either be cleaned up or hidden. Paint can sometimes hide these. Clear coats can as well. Using old CA glue definitely has issues with sticking, requiring longer hold times.

    If the part being glued to can be placed and held in an unmoving condition, and the part being glued can be placed in a position where it is correct before gluing, AND... you are very careful, you can using a glue applicator to wick the glue into place. But this often results in the part being knocked out of position. So I don't know.

    As for holding parts on the bench, something I am going to look into is a piece of foam, or rubber, or perhaps a lint free cloth that I can rest the parts on. It would have to, in turn, be held in position somehow. Perhaps taped down, or as part of some weighted work surface. The idea here of course is that the foam, rubber, or cloth provides a less slippery surface to work on.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I think one of the problems with superglue is that it is brittle and isn't very strong against side stress. If you try to pull something apart that is superglued, it won't budge. But if you put some side force or twist it, then it pops right off. I think one of the biggest problems with the PE for a ship is that there isn't much surface are to hold the glue. For instance, railings are glued along an edge that is microscopically small. Any side force at all and the railing pops off. I watch videos on YouTube and they make it look so easy, but it never quite works that way for me.

    For lost parts, I have actually considered getting a white bedsheet and spreading it under my workbench. It would certainly make finding parts easier, but would make my rolling chair a little difficult to manage. I have also seen people who stretch fine mesh over the hose for a shop vac. The missing parts catch on the mesh and can be retrieved. I need to try one of these just to preserve my sanity.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    I set aside the whole day to install the landing gear. The gear on the real plane is really complicated, and a quick review of the instructions didn't really give me warm and fuzzy feelings that the model would be straight-forward. There are a number of struts and support arms that all need to fit together, and the instructions would have you build all of the struts as a sub-assembly outside of the plane and then fit them in-place in the fuselage. One of the problems with this is that the position of several of the struts need to be estimated as you build, and their position isn't finalized until several steps down the road. In addition, 2 of the struts were bent on their sprue, so their position was going to be a problem from the start. With all of this in mind, I decided to assemble all of these assemblies in the fuselage rather than outside. This plan worked very well, and I ended up with a complete set of spindly landing gear struts that look like they will allow the plane to sit correctly. The completed gear looks very fragile, so I will need to be very careful as I complete the model. I also added the vertical and horizontal flying surfaces, as well as adding some acrylic filler to the wing roots. I will smooth it all out tomorrow. All in all, a successful day. Cheers everyone.

    11 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    Excellent job on the landing gear, my friend @gblair!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 months, 1 week ago:

    The landing gear of a Wildcat has always been a challenge, George @gblair
    Turned out really well.

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    Carl Smoot said 2 months ago:

    Nice recovery work there George (@gblair). I can just imagine how badly that could have turned out if it had been done the way the instructions stated. It is certainly possible to do so, but your approach gives you the added benefit of making sure that not only are the angles correct, but that the landing gear allows the airplane to set right.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten), John (@johnb), and Carl (@clipper). The main gear struts attached to two tiny supports deep in the gear bay, actually the same pins that the PE gear links attach to. I didn't see any way that I could build the entire landing gear structure outside the fuselage and then have the struts find their way onto the two small pins. Modelers probably do it all the time, but I didn't see it happening in my case. :o)

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    Greg Kittinger said 2 months ago:

    Beautiful work thus far, George! I don't have an Arma Wildcat in my stash - have a bunch of others - and there is some rich detail in there! Most of it probably wouldn't be seen in a build of mine, since the wheels are up and a pilot is covering up a lot of the interior work. The couple of Arma kits I have built I have been impressed with, but have also found it pays to vary the assembly instructions on occasion, such as you did with the main gear. Nicely done!

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months ago:

    Hi Greg (@gkittinger): This is indeed a really nice kit. Detailed parts that all fit together well. 1/72 kits have parts that are becoming very difficult for me to work with, especially in a fighter. I have always had a suspicion that the engineers that design the kits aren't necessarily modelers, so things that make sense to an engineer don't work so well for a modeler. I really have doubts that the gear would have come together for me if I had followed the kit instructions.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 months ago:

    I have had lots of life interruptions over the last couple of days, but I have had several small bits of time to move the model forward. It is amazing how much you can get done with 30 or 40 minute chunks of time. My wife will be at a quilter's convention for the weekend, so I should have some more time to work tomorrow. Yeah.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 months ago:

    Excellent progress, my friend @gblair! I will adopt your 30-40 minute hobby work during the day, sounds very efficient.