@fiveten, @johnb, @j-healy, @gblair, @lis, @eb801, @holzhamer and @lgardner, thanks gents
Lis, I seem to have a stroke of luck with my legs. I almost always glue them as soon as possible, and so far only ever lost a tailgear! Louis is spot on with the first guess regarding the hole!

Building bulges

Been adding a thin layer LqS each day for a week

to build up the bulges for the enginemounts

and the airoutlet

next up I hope to have all the LqS sanded and a few other bits done – tune in again!

Looking great, my friend @airbum!

Thank you gents. @gblair, I actually used the styrene bits from the hobbycraft donorkit, added some evergreen to rough shape the lot, then LqS to get the final shape. Of course it would be possible to use some styrene runners that were thick enough, or cutting and sanding a piece of evergreen, but then I would miss the sniffing of glue (OK - windows open for that part)

Fumes are part of the hobby sometimes, Erik (@airbum) and Spiros (@fiveten). Remember the smell from the old lacquer paints like Floquil? And the old lacquer thinner? The new stuff is much better. You still need to be careful. I use 4' x 8' sheets of insulation foam on my model railroad that I cut up with an electric hot knife to create the landforms for my model railroad. You should smell the fumes from that! I have a couple of fans going, and can still only use the knife for a couple of minutes.

Nice wingtip lights, my friend @airbum! Looks like you settled to the correct gray!

Such scratch build wingtip lights are a great addition, Erik @airbum
So much gray, your chosen two are very close.

Thanks for the explanation, Erik @airbum
What is grid size you use at the final sanding to make it transparant again.

Thanks folks.

I start with a coarse as you may have guessed, then 3200 for finetuning and finally polishing with a 6000 (the red one) stick that can hardly be called sanding 🙂 I also have a three surfaced polishing stick that I use on occasion, but today it was the 6000 @johnb.