Thank you, gentlemen, for your kind comments. I am always happy to share "tips," especially since this build is presenting some particular challenges. Like you, George, I think the Buffalo is really cool. I think it was a good design for its time and a rather handsome aircraft, especially in the RAF, Dutch and Finnish versions. I plan to do more of each version at some point. As for this build, a few more challenges came up this week and I have been adjusting accordingly. My enthusiasm for Model Master Semi-Gloss Black has waned. First off, when I removed the masks for the center line color division, the thinned black thin paint had leaked under the mask and left some ugly marks.
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1. Obvious spidery leakage all along the center line - something annoying but fixable in theory.
I decided to start masking each wing for the topside Dark Earth before repairing the center line - this would guard against overspray on the repair. I then discovered that the same black paint was very fragile and lifted off from the wing in chunks with Tamiya tape. Here is how it looked with chunks off the wing edge.
To redo the center line and wings I knew I had to at least partially sand off the weak black paint and redo it with Tamiya. I decided to sand the wing edge and cover the gaps with Tamiya Flat Black and Tamiya Clear. This looked OK as repaired.
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1. Paint chipped off here has already been repaired with Tamiya Flat Black and Clear
2. Entire black surface of wing sprayed with Tamiya Clear to protect it from paint loss.
Meanwhile I simply airbrushed Tamiya Clear over the original MM paint on the fuselage centre line before masking over the black and redoing the Duck Egg Blue. I also coated the rest of the black lower wing area with Clear and hoped for the best with further masking.
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1. The SG Black had to be coated with clear before masking with tape - it worked OK in the end (see next pic)
Success. The center line looked good in the end and nothing lifted.
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1. NIce and sharp and no black paint loss - phew!!
Not so perfect with the further masking though. I did most of it with paper and only the edges with Tamiya tape.
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1. The paper mask looks loose and baggy here because there is a Silly Putty strip underneath. It "glues" down the paper without damaging the paint. Good for curves that the paper doesn't cover well.
For the rear fuselage, I avoided tape altogether and tacked down the paper with Silly Putty - the gentlest thing I know to cover fragile paint without lifting it (I never use Blue Tack, which I find leaves marks on acrylic flat paint).
I think most of the masks will be OK but I know I will have more painting to do on parts of the outer wing that have already lifted . You can see the new paint loss in this pic from tape use.
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1. More black paint loss form tape here inspite of being coated with Tamiya clear - SIGH
Isolated underside repairs are doable, just so long as the center line stays undamaged and no tape will touch that.
So, today I airbrushed on the Gunze Dark Earth. This is the smoothest I have ever gotten Gunze paint using Tamiya thinner and Acrylic Retarder. It is quite transparent though (much more than I expected), so I will do a second coat here and there after the first has dried.
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1. Some over -transparent areas to respray tomorrow
2. Paint is too thin here as well.
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1. Pretty good tonal variation but i may add more with some lightened Dark Earth as well for sun fading.
2. You can see here how the silly putty strips merge with the paper mask at the edge
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1. A second coat will be needed around the cowling where it remains thin.
I tested out my new Gunze mix on a scrap of plastic earlier this week and I know it dries super hard. There should be no danger of it lifting with masks, even with the MM black underneath as a pre-shade. The pre-shade shines through quite nicely, don't you think? I will try use a mix of paper and Silly Putty masks on top before I spray the Dark Green. since I can anchor them to the paper masks underneath, I should be able to use mainly paper, which I prefer. The fuselage may need the Putty strips because of its complex curves.
So that's it. I was a bit discouraged about the lifted paint but I can handle it. I like the colors so far. I hope to get major painting done early in the week before the post shading and oil wash stage. Comments welcome.