Checkerboard nose 190

Started by Pedro L. Rocha · 65 · 3 years ago · 1/48, Eduard Fw 190 A-6, JG.1
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    Louis Gardner said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Absolutely BEE YOU TEE FULL !
    Beautiful in proper English. This is shaping up very nicely. I took a good look at my Eduard Fw-190A2 and now after seeing your example it’s tempting... 🙂
    But I need to finish up some more of my previously started builds before I get going again on a Luftwaffe kick.

    Thanks for posting these updates.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    I echo Louis's @lgardner praising comments above, Pedro!
    Stunning work!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Fantastic work, Pedro.
    Looking foward to how you apply those exhaust stains.
    I'm always having troubles with that.

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    @lgardner - Thanks for the enthusiastic feedback Louis, I do hope sometime next year you get that A-2 out of the box 😉

    @fiveten - Spiros, glad you are enjoying this one

    John, getting the exhaust stains right can make or break a good model imo. Best advice is to look at photos of the real thing and do your best to replicate the flows at least, because in B&W photos the actual hues of the stain is a matter of educated guess most of the times.
    Here’s how I’m doing with this one
    Underside stack


    Main exhaust vents
    This is made with highly diluted black and dark brown Tamyia paints sprayed at a low PSI.
    Tomorrow I’ll add more shades (grey and buff) plus some extra from artist pens.
    Main weathering was made with some Flory wash overall minus the yellow underside cowling. This one will be entirely made with oils. After the weathering is done, another gloss coat goes to seal it up. Decals come right after, and by then the 190 should be up on it’s “feet”

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    George Schembri said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Simply Amazing Pedro, great looking cowling and spinner. And your camo paint looks fantastic also.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Thanks for explaining the exhaust applying approach, Pedro.
    Will give it a try on a white piece of paper first instead of an almost finished model and ruin it.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Very nice Pedro!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Stunning weathering, Pedro @holzhamer!

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Only limited bench time late this afternoon, where I turned my attention to small details.

    Worked on the undercarriage legs and all 3 wheels (which are resin, not the ones supplied in the box) and there are a few very tiny decals to be applied in the legs but that will be done tomorrow, along with a better definition of the grey hydraulic lines I added

    The elegant lines of the Butcher Bird really capture my eye

    the only airbrush minutes I did today were to paint those tabs red.

    More to come soon, thanks for the feedback everyone!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    That landinggear looks amazing, Pedro @holzhamer
    Very realistic.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Count me in also for the praising of your landing gear job, Pedro @holzhamer.
    Stunning work!

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Indeed those legs and their surroubnds are nice Pedro. The "handheld" plane looks great @holzhamer!

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Back to how this kit builds and a word of caution about Eduard’s latest decals.

    I started assembling the undercarriage, both main one and the tail wheel
    Like I mentioned earlier I replaced the kits wheels for a resin set I had in the stash that fits nicely into the plastic parts.
    The tail wheel is a very straightforward business to assemble, the only it is a gap that results after I glued the “fork” that holds the wheel. Since this happened in all my 3 previous builds of this mould (the A-5, the A-4 and the A-8 versions boxes) I don’t think this is a result of my work, but I’ll be happy anyone proves me wrong on this one 🙂
    As for the main legs the instructions call for the modeler to first glue the leg to the cover and the glue the whole thing into the slot on the wheel pit. I have followed this method on the left side leg

    but was unable to fit the right one into the designated slot so I end up glueing only the leg part leaving the cover to follow after the glue securely dries.

    As you can see in the photos it’s not very difficult to align them, leaning inwards/forward, but my advice is using a slow drying glue (no Cyano here!) to allow any correction in the first minute after getting the part fitted in. I used regular liquid glue.

    The decals- Somewhere during this year Eduard started using their new in-house made decals. I’ve read elsewhere people complaining about them in several ways, including how fast they grab the surface. Yeah, well from older Eduard kits my experience with those decals also included that effect... however when these new one grab they sure grab!
    While applying the swastikas on the tail I was so focused on aligning the second one in line with the first that only after a few minutes drying did I noticed it was place way too low on the tail. To release the decals I went for my trusted methods- hot water and some microsol. You guess the result, not only did the decal continued, in most of its area, strongly “glued”, with only small border areas responding to my attempt. The end result was catastrophic, it started tearing small parts after parts thus destroying any chance of salvation. To add insult to the injury, part of the white and black paint of the decal was literally impressed on the blue paint below, and the only way to remove was by gently sanding the area.

    a new repainted tail followed
    So be warned, don’t let these decals dry unless they are in the right spot you want, otherwise you are in for a nasty surprise.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Pedro- you are an awesome painter. What airbrush are you using?

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    Pedro L. Rocha said 3 years, 11 months ago:

    Thank you very much Eric, that’s a flattering compliment. In this build I’m using Harder & Steinbeck infinity for the mottling and demarcation lines of the 74/75. For the large paint areas an Iwata Neo