Keeping in the 72nd scale theme.

The clear canopy is removed and the upper center console is carefully installed.

Once attached to the cockpit, I use Tamiya tape to mask it off.

Next to paint the nose Med Grey, this particular F-111 had a grey nose not the typical black.  

Next up is to paint the canopy frames black.

Then to mask off the nose and to prepare to start painting the rest of the airframe.

Next time up. Airbrush the black lower surfaces. more to follow.

Did I ever say that I love to paint camo? Well i do, and using Gunze Acrylics I will start the SEA scheme used on the F-111.

Starting with Tan FS30219 applied first in the areas this color appears around the airframe. First masking off the lower black sections for a sharp edge.

Then apply the color around and on the of the aircraft.

Then painting the rudder and stabs.

Next freehanding the 2nd color Med Green FS34012, filling in the areas that this color will appear feathered into the tan.

Then finally again the stabs.

Now finally the 3rd color, Dk Green FS34079

Whats nice is that Gunze really flows very well, so it was an enjoyable session without stopping to unclog the tip.

After unmasking the black edge, to take a peek for any bleeding, non found but some issues on the black to go over.

Unwrapped the nose and again, nice finish, no bleed through, love that Tamiya tape. And no peeling of paint either.

Now time to mask the tip of the rudder, and paint the squadron ID Blue. I used RLM 24 Blue Polly scale acrylic

Next the wing ft edge dialectric panels are masked off and painted Tamiya Flat Black.

Now the detail painting is completed. Time to clear coat with Future. More to follow.

Thanks George, I use a Paasche "H" single action airbrush, the type I have been using since I was 16 years old. Though this is not the original one, this is the 3rd one. I have tried others, like the Paasche VL double action, just never got comfortable with it. Have had a Badger as well. But I love my trusty simple to use "H" model, #1 tip and with low setting of air just lightly went over the top of the rudder for the blue. Trust me not always perfect. This one was easy for me knowing how and when to lay the paint. Even after all these years, i am still learning. Still a novice when it comes to NMF finishes. Only have 2 under my belt to date.

Hi Chuck, I just found this WIP today. Beautiful work here, and I appreciate your comments about painting . I re-entered the hobby a couple years back and finally spent the money for an airbrush and Co2(?) tank. I'm learning VERY slowly with a double-action Badger, but having fun with every mistake... after the crying stops. Anyways, really enjoying this thread, and eyeballing my Acad FB-111 in the part-done pile. Thanks for some inspiration, and as a PS, you may check orientation of those fuselage strakes, the may be in retreat... No criticism, just trying to be helpful.

Cheers,

Scott

Hi Scott, thanks I appreciate that, on the strakes are you talking about the lower ones under each side of the fuselage? I don't understand "retreat". But I am open to suggestion if they are off in angle or whatever the case may be? Looking at some images of an F-111. I don't see where they are off at. I hope you can elaborate as I don't quite what you mean by retreat? Trust me I would like to know.

Hi George, yes the kit is designed so you can remove the wings during the assembly and if you want you don't have to cement them in after your done. As the fit here is very good. You also have the option to have them fully swept with all the flaps and slats closed. The wings on this build are permanently attached.

Yep they sure are, need to fix that.

The Aardvark has a very complicated main landing gear system. Hasegawa has replicated the system and their approach in assembling a very complicated multi component structure is excellent. Details in this scale is more than what Academy provides in 48th scale. When you first look at the steps in the construction, the arms, struts doors that are involved in assembling the main gear looks daunting at first. However what helps is that all the little bits and pieces fit as they should, which is to me the most important factor to the whole process.

The first step build the main arms and actuators which attach to the main rear bulkhead of the gear bay.

A few bits are involved, for the first step. The most important step that set the foundation for the whole assy. By following the steps carefully it is not difficult and goes together quite easily. All the locating point for each part are as they should, not short, not long but precise locating pins in their place as pointed out in the directions.

Next up is attaching the wheels and doors with actuators.

The layout of the wheels and associated components in completing the whole shabang.

The rear main gear door.

The wheels are glossy white and Testors Rubber (the small bottle)

The sub assy as it looks before step 2 of attaching the doors, actuators and wheels

The assy now completed less the wheels.

Now the wheels are attached and is now ready to be installed into the airframe.

The forward main gear door also serves as a dive brake during certain maneuvers. The inside of the door is MM Insignia Red Enamel as well as the door actuator.

Next to install the landing gear and dive brake door.

Again Hasegawa has helped the process with a precise fit, very little chance of any misalignment, using the bulkhead as the main attachment point within the gear bay well. Also the forward door attachment point is excellent as well.

Next while still working under the A/C is to attach the forward ID lamp in front of the nose gear bay.

Finally to assemble, paint and attach the Paveway pod. It will be in Olive Drab. Using Lifecolor Acrylic for this color. While in the airbrush i painted the Paveway GBU-10 bombs in this color as well. The pod glass is painted Tamiya Clear Blue with a chrome backing.

Next up is to install the bombs and work on the detail bits on the upper airframe. More to follow.

Happy Easter!