Great work on those straps, Eric.
This looks so much better than when you had left them out.

Those "holders" look perfect Eric.

Myself, I continue to use my Paasche-H, the fourth one I have owned over 50 years as I continue to learn new tricks with the old dog.

Erik: Yeah, seems like GWH needs somebody in quality control. Left hand doesn’t seem to know what the right hand did and vice versa.

Andrew & Carl: Appreciate your Iwata comments. It’s been years since I used a double action brush but I’m sure it will all come back to me. I think I’ll pull the trigger (ha ha) and order one.

I think I’m getting too carried away with the details here.

That's a good idea Spiros. Exactly what I was thinking but I use water based white latex caulk for these kind of situations as it dries fast without much shrinkage and you can paint over it without waiting three or more hours. Wipes smooth with one's wet finger.

Eric, @eb801
The white glue trick works very good. I use it regularly on stubborn canopies.

Also, I started airbrushing about 20 years ago using an Aztek -A470. I got tired of purchasing new spray tips for it, but it was the best I could afford at the time and it worked very good. Later, about 7 years ago, I purchased an Iwata HP-C plus, and it is a very good air brush. The problem I had with it was when it was time to spray on German mottle finishes or the spaghetti or "Wellenmuster" style camouflage. I just couldn't get it to paint a fine enough line, even in 1/32 scale.

I tried various air pressures and different paint ratios. I even went to the smallest needle and nozzle they offered to no avail. Then I went so far as to purchase a separate MAC valve... but nothing worked, and I still couldn't replicate the fine lines I could spray with the fine tan colored tip using the Aztek.

Then recently about a year ago, I broke down and bought a German made Harder and Steenbeck "Evolution" . Mine came with a 0.020 and a 0.040 needle and seat set up. It also has two different sized paint cups.

THIS THING ROCKS !

If I had it all to do over again I would have spent a little more money the first time around and went straight to the Harder and Steenbeck. I now have no problems with painting even the finest of lines. I still use the Iwata, but I save it for when I am painting a large area or a single color finish. It works great for that... The H&S works out perfectly for my Luftwaffe and Japanese camouflage work.

Hope this helps you with your air brush choices. I owe this information to our friend Pedro Rocha, @holzhamer
who steered me in the right direction after I asked him how he managed to get his Luftwaffe paint scheme so nice... This was his answer. H&S Evolution series. You can't go wrong with it. It comes with the second needle assembly so you can also use it for spraying large areas. Clean up is a breeze too.

I got a good deal on mine at "Spraygunner.com" These guys are good. Check them out, I don't think you will be disappointed. Their sales staff are very knowledgeable because they too are builders, and they use what they sell. That alone makes a huge difference.

I like what you did with using the wire to secure the torpedo in place. The real plane used a cable, to hoist the torpedo and to secure it in place. It looks extremely authentic. I am fairly certain that I used something very similar when I built up an Accurate Miniatures TBF-1C Avenger and back dated it to one of the 6 planes used at the Battle of Midway.

By the looks of things, you will be posting this one soon in the headlines section.

Keep on rocking brother, it's looking good and the finish line is in sight.

PS: The fire extinguisher looks GREAT ! 😉

Ok it's fixed now and it does look much better without that "notch". I used water based caulk and a little white glue. Now it's time for cleanup.