GWH 1/48 Devastator – FINISHED

Started by Eric Berg · 173 · 3 years ago · devastator, dive bomber, Douglas, Great Wall Hobby, GWH TBD-1 devastator, Lt. John C. Waldron, Midway, T-16, TBD-1, TBD-1 Devastator, torpedo, torpedo bomber, VT-8
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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    John: I do recommend you pick up a bottle of Vallejo’s airbrush thinner which has a top that squeezes out one drop at a time. I follow the instructions which is 5 drops of paint to one drop of thinner but you can play around with it.

    I’m going to try Vallejo’s metal aluminum next.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    @eb801,
    Thanks, currently I am indeed using their airbrush thinner. I prefer a slightly thinner than proposed mixture, but that is ofcourse to everybodies preference.
    Maybe it also depends on the airbrush you use.
    I also use some drops of their airbrush flow improver. It slightly increases the drying time and gives a bit smoother result.
    Their Metal Colors are also still on my wishlist.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    John: What airbrush do you use? I am thinking about upgrading. I've used a Paasche H forever, simple and indestructible like a DC-3.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    @eb801
    Eric, since airbrushing is quite new to me, I also started with a simple one.
    It is a dual action Fengda BD-180, very simple and very cheap.
    Also close to indestructable.
    Till now it is sufficient to improve my skills but eventualy I want to upgrade as well.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    ABOUT THE TORPEDO

    As I was getting ready to install the torpedo to underside cradle, I started thinking, hey wait a second, there's no attachment point to keep this guy from falling out. So I did a little research and I discovered another mistake in GWH's kit instructions. Let's take a look at those instructions first:

    Now let's look at a photo of the real thing:

    Low and behold, these two torpedo hard points (pylons) are actually included in the kit, parts 53 and 54 but for some reason GWH doesn't mention them in the instructions. I installed them according to reference photos. Next up I have to figure out some scratch built straps to secure the torpedo.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Very nice, Eric.
    Unbelievable they missed that in their own instructions.
    And good you discovered that in time before attaching the torpedo.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Yep, I think the kit builder took a break and the one who was writing the instructions made his own composition, Eric @eb801...
    Good thing that, at least, the tightening pylons (!) are there.

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    Tom Cleaver said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Get some Evergreen strip - you want about a (roughly) 1/16" width and about 10mil thickness. Good catch.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Thanks Tom for that suggestion but I already came up with a solution that I'm in the middle of completing based on the above reference photos. I'll be posting it soon.

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    Andrew H said 3 years, 10 months ago:

    Look good Eric, and good catch.

    I can echo John, generally spraying the vallejo paints a bit thinner and with their flow improver, which is essentially a retarder. I also use their thinner and flow improver with MM Acrylics with great effect. Sprayed from Iwata HP-CS.

    Note, no thinners of any kind needed for their metallics, you will readily find.

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    George Henderson said 3 years, 9 months ago:

    Just found this thread and I have to say...WOW! Well done Eric. Late to the game here but regarding the thick attachment points. Pick up a set of these little saws which fit in a normal blade handle...

    These will cut the part almost flush, sometimes needing no clean up. Great for clear parts but mask the clear parts to avoid scraping with the handle. (Guess how I found out). These are also great for scribing panel lines though sometimes these are finer than the kit panel lines. I have eight bottles of various Vallejo Metallics and I really like them. I've read some bad reviews about them being fragile and don't handle masking well. Yes they do scrape easily but careful handling will stop this. As for masking, I spray and then let it sit for a minimum of 24hrs. I do this for all Vallejo Model Air paint. When masking, I detack the bejaysus out of the Tamiya tape. I remove the tape almost immediately after spraying, pulling very slowly and at an angle. Doing this, I have rarely had paint lift and if it did, it is no more than when I use Tamiya, Gunze or Polly Scale.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 9 months ago:

    It is becoming obvious hat the poor man makoing the instructions did so late at night . . .

    And suddenly this build is once again a very useful tool for anyone braving this kit. Thank you for sharing Eric.

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    Eric Berg said 3 years, 9 months ago:

    I came up with a fix based on the reference photos above to secure the torpedo to its fairing. I used some thin gauge wire and tiny thin squares of evergreen styrene with holes drilled in the center to give the wire something to hold on to. Glued the squares to the pylon and inserted the wire held in place with my favorite styrene friendly super glue, "Plastic Surgery". Whew! I might go back and add a little more detail
    later because the more I stare at it...

    While I'm at it, I want to mention the wheels supplied in the kit are sagged tires. It's my understanding that carrier planes had their tires pumped up to the max to counter act rough deck landings. It would have been nice for GWH to supply both tire options like others do. I used them anyway. I was going to steal the pumped up wheels from my Monogram kit but they appear to be incorrect for this TBD version and don't fit the gear anyway with out some slight modification.

    George: Thanks for the tip on the Tamiya blades. I will give those a try. I am testing Vallejo's Metal Aluminum out at the moment. I'll let you know what I think. I usually go with Alclad.

    Andrew H: The Iwata HP-CS is exactly what I was thinking of purchasing. do you have the model with the cup on top?

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    Carl Smoot said 3 years, 9 months ago:

    I like the nice little details of adding the support straps for the torpedo. It's small bits like this that make the model stand out.

    I have the Iwata HP-CS with the cup on top and it has served me well so far. There are better and more expensive air brushes available but so far this has worked for me. One thing is it's important to keep internal mix airbrushes clean. What I typically do is to plan my airbrush sessions with multiple colors so I can keep tear downs and clean ups minimized (although in truth, it's not hard to do on these ).

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    George Henderson said 3 years, 9 months ago:

    Very nice. I just swapped over from my Testor Aztek A470 to a more traditional airbrush, the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2 in 1. The 2 in 1 part is 2 different sized paint cups (2ml and 5ml) and a .2mm and a .4 needle and caps. Love it I do and its supposed to be easier than Iwata to strip and clean. Short story long...last year the company offered us a gift selection instead of the usual gift certificate. There was nothing I wanted so I passed. About a month later, the gift company informed me if there was nothing I wanted, make an offer and they'll decide if its OK. On another forum someone purchased the above AB so I chose it and it was accepted. It took 3 months for it to get to Canada and when it did I was told they couldn't deliver to a Post Office box so the gift company took my street address and reordered. A week later the original AB came to my PO box and 2 weeks later the reordered AB showed up at my PO box as well so now I have two