Polikarpov Po-2 1/48 ICM-Eduard, post-war civil version, Hungary - FINISHED

Started by Csaba · 222 · 2 years ago
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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Yep, laser printed decals seem to be more "stable", my friend @pikofix.

    I had similar issues in the past with inljet printed codes that dissolved, no problem with the laser printed ones.

    One minor point I experienced was that the laser printer "burned" the decal paper (at least the one I used...) to the point that you have only one printing chance: if you pass it once more from the laser printer, it's no longer a decal paper...

    Looking forward to your progress!

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Short morning update - It seems that Microscale’s liquid decal film and Mr. Mark Softer are a must. The untreated decals have a visible edge, and peeling off the surface easily. However, the decals with the decal film and softener have an almost invisible layer of film.

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Yes Spiros , I have the same concern about the paper. I noticed that my test sheet changed a bit after printing. I had one small section sent over the printer twice, seemed to be ok afterwards, but you have a point there. I will cut the sheet into smaller pieces when I do the final version. I believe my printer can go down to 80x100mm, or something like in that range.

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Csaba, I also use a old laserprinter (Black only) and had the same experience regarding the black. I have a spot of trouble applying the LDF evenly, but it sure helps, In my experience the black gets a bit "dusty" grey from matt clear, so a thin layer or two of closs and a final thin matt may do the trick. The gloss will help to smoothen the edges of the carrier film and may be sanded a bit when fully dry.

    Looking forward to the decals on the painted kit and hearing more of your experiences.

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Thanks for the tips Erik, I will try a few methods before applying the final version. I will also try to cut the masks for fun, but based on the trials, these decals might be good enough, and would keep the build simple. I would prefer painting the registration, because that looks way better in larger scales. Let’s see. 🙂

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Your self-printed decals look great, Csaba.

    To me this is a new technique and I would like to thank you all (@fiveten, @airbum, @pikofix) for sharing this information.

    For sure will give it a try myself sometime.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Your home-made decals look great, Csaba (@pikofix). I have also tried decals on both an ink jet and laser printer. The ink from the ink jet will dissolve quickly under our modeling solvents unless they are protected with a clear coat, which will also dissolve the ink if applied too heavily, and will make the decal thick. I always use a laser now. Because the ink is "set" using heat, you can get by with a very thin coat of clear. I have even used laser decals with no clear coat at all. I have found that this usually leads to very thin decals that can be difficult to get on the model. I have also had trouble getting enough ink density to print color decals, but I am still working on that. Looking forward to seeing your decals on your plane.

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Another baby step.
    I managed to salvage the seat belts from the Eduard kit. A few years ago I glued those on the seats, but luckily that small amount of superglue snapped without problem.

    The plane will be ready for the first layer of Surfacer in a week or two. I have to glue a few etched details onto the wings, assembly and paint the simple cockpit, and then ready to go!

    1 attached image. Click to enlarge.

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    @gblair, thanks for the tips! I had the same experience with the inkjet decals during my early trials. Seeing my print dissolved was the reason why I abandoned the idea for more than a decade.
    Laser works much better for simple decals. Creating my own custom design is a lot of fun, I think I will experiment more!

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Things are slow here, the daycare is closed down due to a suspected COVID case, so I am on father duty all day long.

    I had some time today to take a look on the original photos, again. It seems that building a true replica would require much more work than I initially thought. The original PAX had a different wing and tail layout compared to the kit. The kit is an early/mid soviet production Po-2, while the PAX was a late soviet/polish production version. The late wings had Frise ailerons, while the early was a very simple construction. The Frise ailerons have offset hinges, and those help reducing the adverse yaw when the plane rolls.

    The kit represents a much more simple early version, where no aerodynamical compensation was used. The Frise ailerons had a slot between the control surfaces and the wing, so from a specific angle you could "look through" the wings. The offset hinges are also very visible.

    A similar concept was used on the horizontal stabilizers and elevators. The early type was dead simple, while the late one had a different layout and hinge design.

    The elevators are easy to modify, but to be honest I don´t want to start cutting the wings. It would greatly improve the authenticity and look of the finished model, but would take a long time to make all 4 ailerons. I think I will try to imitate the wing hinges with engraved panel lines and paint, but I will do the actual modification on the tail. Kind of a half-hearted solution, but sometimes we have to make compromises.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    I totally agree with your solution, my friend @pikofix! A very good compromise, might I say, one that will produce an excellent result whatsoever. Cutting the wings is really too much.

    Being an all day father slows your modeling activity for sure, but rises the temptation and is a motivation booster!

    Ask me how I know... 🙂

    Your thread is amazing so far, there are so many interesting things about the Po-2 that I have joyfully learned!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    A well chosen approach, Csaba.
    Also great research done on this project.
    Thanks for sharing.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    I agree with the previous comments, Csaba (@pikofix). It is probably possible to correct every possible thing on a kit so that it is exactly like the original, but at some point it stops being fun. I stopped building models for contests because worrying about rivet patterns, exact paint colors, extreme cockpit detailing, and the like took all the fun out of building. I enjoy modeling a lot more now. I usually correct the major things, and the rest are never spotted by those few people who see my models.

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    Csaba said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    I added most of the photoetched parts to the cockpit and wings. I don´t really like Eduard´s prepainted parts, so I will just cover them with Mr. Surfacer, as anything else. Also managed to glue together a small assembly fixture for the horizontal stabilizer and elevator.

    I plan to assembly and paint the cockpit next week, and that will clear the way for the other assembly steps.

    @gblair , I fully understand your point. I enjoy visiting shows, but it is rare that I enter the competition. It is just out of my league, you can also see a few of those extremely skilled guys here on iModeler. I really respect their work, but unfortunately I don´t have that much time and energy for a model.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years, 7 months ago:

    Nice progress made, Csaba.
    To me your builds are really of high standard and definitely worth a contest.
    But I agree that having fun in modelling is the most important part.