Special Hobby 1/48 Martin Model 167F-A.3 (Martin Maryland)

Started by George R Blair Jr · 97 · 4 years ago · 1/48, Martin 167, Martin Maryland, Special Hobby
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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Back to the color scheme:
    I found an interesting discussion on the Britmodeller website last night concerning the paint scheme and identification codes on the aircraft I am doing. I think the posts were from 2008. It is an interesting discussion that shows no one really has the answer.

    Most everyone agrees that the plane was a Martin Maryland from 771 Squadron of the Fleet Air Arm, and that its serial number was AR720, although there are some doubters on the serial number. Many of the posts note that there are several books with diagrams of the aircraft in question, and they are all different. Basically some show the plane in Temperate Sea Scheme (Extra Dark Sea Gray, Dark Sea Gray, and Sky), while others show the plane in Temperate Land Scheme (Dark Green, Dark Brown, Sky). All have the serial number, but some show "Royal Navy" painted above the serial on the fuselage. Some sources say the plane had no code letter, some say it had a white "W", while others say it had a white "T". One post said he had a book with two fuzzy pictures of AR720, and one was coded "W" and one was coded "T". He says the camo in one photo is easy to see, so he thinks it is TLS, while the camo in the 2nd photo is hard to see, so he thinks it might be TSS. Neither photo had "Royal Navy" painted above the serial number. One post said he had a photo of AR720 that was definitely in TSS, but he can't find the photo. Another post said he had a book with an interview from someone in the squadron at the time and they stated that the planes were never repainted when they got them from the RAF. Another post said he had a source that said the plane carried the code "W" when the Bismarck search was going on, but changed to "T" later.

    So, here is the consensus from the thread: The plane was most probably in TLS camouflage, carrying a white code "W", and did not have "Royal Navy" painted above the serial. They also came to the conclusion that you could probably paint it in either scheme, since there is conflicting evidence.

    I think I am gratified that others, far more knowledgeable than I, are just as confused as I am. I really like the TSS, but I am finding more photos of planes used by the Fleet Air Arm that retained their old RAF TLS camouflage during FAA service. I think it will be a "game time" decision when I get to the painting stage.

    Everyone stay safe.

    5 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Always nice to reduce the guesswork a tiny bit George!

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    One more interesting discussion of the epic discussions, regarding the exact colour scheme of the exact plane at the exact period.
    I love those discussions, even if at times they get confusing, George @gblair!
    The busy look at the nose front is indeed quite prominent.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    I got the replacement canopy today. Yeah! I had basically done just about everything I could on the model without having the canopy. I was hopeful that the new canopy would fit better than the old one, and it was almost a good fit. It fits much better than the previous canopy, but will still need a little massaging to get it in place. I still plan to glue one side, let it dry, and then glue and bend the other side into position. I treated the edges of the canopies to some black marker, which helps prevent the weird way light runs through the edges of the plastic. I double-checked the pilot's canopy for fit and then glued it in place. There are two small photoetch gauges which are glued to the inside of the front canopy which I added using superglue. I will glue the bombadier's canopy in place tomorrow after I am sure the gauges are solidly attached. Before I sealed the nose section, I also added some instruments to make the section a little busier.

    I did a little shaping on the C-47 engines that I plan to use, and then painted them using black spray primer as a base and then drybrushing with aluminum. I did some detail painting with Vallejo acrylics to finish up. Although the engines looked pretty good, they were missing the pairs of tubes that go to each cylinder. I am not completely sure what these tubes are for, but I think they have something to do with the operation of the valves on the engine. Anyway, I thought I might take a shot at adding these using very fine styrene rod. It was a little time consuming to cut and fit all of these rods, but I think the engine looks better with them. Things were going so well at this point that I actually thought about adding the wiring on the front of the engines, but I came to my senses and decided enough is enough. I basically don't like to do a lot of detail work on a build, but sometimes I jump down the rabbit hole before I realize what happened. I also decided to replace the kit wheels with some resin resin wheels I had for a C-47. The main wheels are almost exactly the same size and configuration as the kit wheels, but the tail wheel was too big to fit on the tail wheel assembly, so I used the tail wheel from the kit.

    With these items ready to go, I decided not to press my luck too much today and will continue tomorrow. Till then, everyone stay safe.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Wow, what a fantastic progress George @gblair!

    I'm glad your canopy arrived and almost fits!

    I am very interested on this black marker process. Seems to be efective, and I may use it also.

    Those tubes in front of the engine are the pushrods for the cylinder inlet and exhaust valves.

    I don't think it was an omision of the supplied resin engines, since they were truly of high quality. I assume that the builder was supposed to add those rods (and possibly the wiring), in order to achieve a really spectacular 3D look.

    Your cockpit, engines and wheels are looking really beautiful!

    Waiting to see your progress eagerly!

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Very nice indeed George (@gblair)!
    Like our friend Spiros said the rods you added are just that; tubes that contain the valvepushrods, and good stuff that you added them, as you would have a hard time getting the engines started without them 🙂

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    I am sure you are right about the engines, Spiros (@fiveten). It was obvious that the engines were designed for the modeler to add the rods, but I think they were left off because of the casting process. I have never added them before and were easy to add. When I was a T-37 flight instructor in pilot training, I was also an academic instructor teaching aircraft systems. Ask me anything about a T-37 engine, but piston engines can sometimes be a mystery. :o)

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    I have seen some resin (and even some Hasegawa styrene) engines with the rods cast in; they look for sure great, but do not look as your engines are looking now (ie perfect) George @gblair: especially when viewed from an angle, where you can see the rods connected to the cylinders all along their length, which is not correct.

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    David Mills said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Great work George!
    Keep at it - really enjoying this thread.

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    I finally got caught up with this thread - and downloaded a bunch of your pics for reference to use on my 1/72 build! Looking fantastic. Love all the detail work in the pit areas. Working on that Ju 188 I'm getting used to how busy it should look behind all that glass!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    You must have been extremely happy when you found this canopy in your mailbox, George. @gblair
    Finally able to bring your Maryland to a good finish.
    Engines look fantastic, like everything else.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks for the kind words, Spiros (@fiveten). I have built a bunch of kits where the rods are already cast in place and look pretty good when completed, but the difference is quite striking when they are added separately.

    Thanks, David (@davem). Do you have any "across the pond" thoughts on the paint scheme for this plane?

    Thanks, Greg (@gkittinger). The Ju 188 is one of those planes that makes my hands shake just thinking about masking all of that glass. I am looking forward to the completion of your build.

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks, John (@JohnB). I actually had a friend in Austin (about 90 miles from where I live) who had the canopy, so I just drove up and got it. I am now officially a "happy camper".

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    Jaime Carreon said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    George, I too am a late arrival to this build but am following it with much interest. The Maryland and Baltimore bombers are both on my to do list, and you are right, they are ugly enough to be cool. Hard to imagine they are stablemates of the B-26 Marauder.

    Spent quite a bit of time working on R-1830s during my Gooney Bird cargo days, and as Spiros observed, the tubes you mention are indeed the pushrods for the valves. The lower ends should be into the crankcase (the cam lobes are just below where the rods enter) and the upper ones go into the front of each cylinder head. Remember, jets are for kids...

    FWIW - Future floor polish is wonderful stuff for attaching photoetch...

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    Chuck A. Villanueva said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Gosh close my eyes for a moment and a Maryland is almost finished. Fantastic work George not only on the building but also the research. With very little to go on with the paint scheme with conflicting results. Even first hand interviews are not quite confirming. Time frame, code changes, re painted at a certain point or just left as it was transferred from. It can be tough weighing in on all these factors. Despite that challenge, you have managed a tough build so far. That canopy issue will put the kabbash for some builders and just put it away for awhile. You were able to get past it. I know I would've been like hmmm now what? Keep it going George. The build looks great.