Trio of Hudsons in 1/72

Started by George R Blair Jr · 355 · 10 months ago · 1/72, 3D printing, Italeri, Lockheed Hudson, MPM, Revell
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    Carl Smoot said 12 months ago:

    3D Printing, I have no doubt, is superior for producing this sort of detail. There are already plenty of examples of that available as aftermarket as well as parts of kits now. For me, getting past the learning curve (CAD and 3D printing) is the big stumbling block I need to work on. I'm not afraid to try, just rather busy. In the meantime, I resort to older methods , such as vac-forming and hand scratchbuilding. But this new technique is on my radar. One way I am going to break into it is to purchase one of the plastic wire printers and use it to make some tools for my workbench. This will give me experience in both CAD and printing. When I feel comfortable enough with it, I will purchase a resin printer.

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    George R Blair Jr said 12 months ago:

    All three kits are basically in the same place, so I decided to move the Revell lead ship toward the finish line. I added a bunch of small parts to the landing gear and also added the front canopy. It still needs some filler around the edges, but it should be OK. I cleaned up the 3D printed cowling I made and was getting ready to glue them on when I realized that these cowlings were for the late model Hudson, and the Revell is an early model Hudson. This is why I don't like to build more than one. With that sorted out, I also wanted to use a set of props that I 3D printed. I got them painted today, and will assemble them tomorrow. Getting close to the finish line on this Revell kit, so I hope to be painting soon. Cheers everyone.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Carl Smoot said 12 months ago:

    Looking good George (@gblair). Props are another area of the Airfix kit that I am going to have to find a solution for. Kit prop hubs look like something from the Flintstones and the blades look to be too short to my eyes.

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    George R Blair Jr said 12 months ago:

    Thanks, Carl (@clipper). The props and hubs in these kits don't look too bad, but they would require a lot of clean up. I found the files to print the props online for free. They were 1/32 scale, but it is simple to scale them up or down to get what you need. You really need to look into 3D printers. They are not expensive anymore, and the learning curve isn't nearly as steep as you might think. If I can figure it out, I am sure you can, too. I get most of my print files for free online. Designing your own stuff has a steep curve, but I used my printer for a year and a half before I started dabbling in design. I am just doing baby steps in design with a free program call Tinkercad, but I hope to do some more complex stuff soon. Anyway, time to shut down for the night. Cheers.

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    Matt Dyer said 12 months ago:

    George (@gblair), I am so enjoying following this adventure in scale modeling. You just keep rolling over the speed bumps that limited run kits provide. And, I do not know why I had not figured out that I should try alcohol on Vallejo Putty to smooth it. Thanks for that tip!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 12 months ago:

    That is some amazing 3D printed work, George @gblair
    I really like how those Hudsons are getting together and the way you are using this printing technique.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 12 months ago:

    Amazing job do far, my friend @gblair! Looking forward to see the Revell crossing the finish line!

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    George R Blair Jr said 12 months ago:

    Thanks, Matt (@matthewfdyer), John (@johnb), and Spiros (@fiveten). I have been sort of dragging my feet on these because I was getting tired of the "challenges", but I realized yesterday I was getting close enough to start making a final push to the end. I have several models I want to start building. The Vallejo putty will come off slowly with alcohol, Matt, which is why I like it. I wet it first with a little alcohol to let if soften a little, then start shaping with a cotton swab or piece of paper towel dipped in alcohol. It comes off slowly. I still use Tamiya putty and sanding if it is a large seam.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 12 months ago:

    Is that the Vallejo Acrylic putty you are using, George @gblair
    I'm using that as well and it is indeed very nice putty to work with.

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    George R Blair Jr said 12 months ago:

    Hi, John (@johnb): Yes, it is the Vallejo putty. It works well for smaller jobs, especially if everything is lined up. I still use Tamiya filler for edges that don't match or if the gap is large.

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    Carl Smoot said 12 months ago:

    I've not had much luck with Vallejo acrylic putty in the past, but I've tried smoothing it out with water shortly after applying. I have not tried it with IPA before, so I will give it a try next time I need to do that sort of thing.

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    Louis Gardner said 12 months ago:

    George R Blair Jr (@gblair)
    Wow ! Your 3D printed parts look incredible ! I am VERY impressed with this. Prop hubs and blades, cowlings are all definite improvements over the kit parts. When I build multiples of the same kind of aircraft, I usually try to add little notes in each box if there are any special items that were one off, like the engine cowlings you mentioned. The trick is keeping the right parts in the right boxes... Sometimes I will even make little notes on the inside of a wing or fuselage in an area that will not be seen later. It seems to help me keep the chaos a little more controlled too. I enjoy building kits in this manner because it allows me to build them faster in an assembly line fashion.

    I just picked up a neat trick from you by looking at your photos, and that's on painting the tips of the props yellow. I have never lined them all up at once before on a single piece of tape... I will definitely give this method a try. Genius !

    I'm looking forward to your next installment. By the looks of things, you will be heading to the paint shop soon. Keep it going my friend.

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    George R Blair Jr said 12 months ago:

    Thanks, Louis (@lgardner). The printer is becoming more and more useful. I got the files for the props online, but the cowling I designed on the free software I am using. The software doesn't allow anything complicated, but it has done pretty well designing what I need. When I started building the three kits, I got a container for each one. I have found that it is easy to confuse things when I have the same parts for all three kits out to work on them. Most of them are all the same, but things like the cowlings are different between the early and late marks. I had all of the cowlings out to clean them up and add the engines and I put the later cowlings in the wrong container, so this led to some confusion later. But I am getting to the end of the parts for all three, so the confusion should draw to a close. I have never lined up the props and painted them at once before, mainly because the kits always have the props already assembled. I have the Revell early mark Hudson almost ready to paint. It will be in the standard dark earth/dark green camo. About all that is left is to add the canopy masks and start painting. I hope to get the bottom painted tomorrow. Cheers.

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    George R Blair Jr said 12 months ago:

    I got the lead ship (Revell) ready to paint today. I added several small bits, and then spent a glorious 90 minutes adding all of the canopy masks. All of the Eduard masks sort of fit, but none of them exactly fit. I sprayed the nose and pilots canopy their respective interior colors, and then painted the leading edges black. I did a little pre-shading, but I doubt it will show through the painting. I am figuring post-shading. The bottom of this first plane is supposed to be "aluminum paint". Wasn't too sure about that, but I have confirmed in 3 different sources, so tomorrow we do aluminum.

    I started working on the next two models to bring them up to the painting stage. Lots of small parts to add, as well as different cowlings and exhaust configurations. Things are moving slowly on the last two. None of these small parts really fit, so there is a lot of sanding and shaping of really small pieces, along with the time to recover them from the carpet. Hopefully I can get these last 2 up to the painting stage by the weekend. Cheers everyone;.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Carl Smoot said 12 months ago:

    Moving along quickly George(@gblair). The painting should really bring the Revell kit to life and hopefully will aid in any lack of enthusiasm for the other two kits. I like spraying the AK Real colors, they work just like the Tamiya paints (which I also like). Looking forward to the rest of this.