1/48 Fw-190D-9 (Hobby Boss)

Started by Anders Isaksson · 29 · 7 years ago
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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Following Tom Cleaver's positive review of the Hobby Boss D-9 elsewhere on this site I ran out and bought the kit. The box didn't sit on my shelf for too long... 🙂

    The cockpit area looks good from the box but I added a few PE details borrowed from an Eduard set made for the Hasegawa Fw 190A-8, as I figured the details are similar enough. The control stick comes from CMK and the seat comes from SBS Model.

    The engine plug for the area visible through the wheel well lacks a lot of plumbing, but on the other hand not much is really visible. I added a few lead wires of different sizes to remedy this.

    The various subassemblies painted up with RLM 02 and 66.

    A set of Quickboost hollow exhausts were used instead of the solid kit items. Strangely enough, they lack the weld line along each stub but otherwise look superb.
    While these are designed for the Eduard kit I found them to be a good fit. Blobs of epoxy putty were used to secure them inside the fuselage.

    A set of Master Detail cannon barrels were used also. As they are not designed for this kit the gear bays needed some modification for the barrels to sit as intended, but nothing too serious.
    Also, I tried to represent the missing shell ejector chute in the center of the wing using my Dremel and a little careful cutting.

    The cowling had the solid areas between each flap removed and cleaned up. Simple styrene strips were installed to simulate the flap actuators. Yes, they are a bit long but this should not be visible when the cowl has is in place.
    Also, as pointed out in Mr Cleaver's review I made sure to close the flap located in front of the supercharger intake.

    Ready for some paint!

    The stabilators come from an Aires set. While designed for the Tamiya kit they fit just fine and enables the elevators to be posed dropped or raised - IMHO a major improvement to any model.

    I am certainly no expert on the Fw 190 but I still think this is an exeptional kit and it has been a fun build so far. 🙂

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    Editor said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Very good progress here. I wonder what was your building time so far?

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Hmm, not sure why the last two photos ended up as attached files instead of embedded in the text.
    Perhaps the webmaster can help me out... 🙂

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    Site Administrator said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Certainly. That's because pictures no. 7 & 9 were not inserted explicitly in your text, with the effect that they are automatically gathered as a gallery at the end.

    As a principle, all images tagged within the text will appear inline. The remainder will be still grouped as a gallery at the and of the article.

    See full help article here:
    http://imodeler.com/about/arranging-the-images-within-text/

    Hope this helps.

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Thanks! It appears that I failed to give the last two pics their proper tags which explains why they did not show up in the text. Fixed now! 🙂

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Thanks Martin, and that's a difficult question that I have thought about until now.
    For this build it feels like I have spent most of the time at the bench contemplating wether to use this or that aftermarket item or go with the kit content, as was the original plan.
    But let's say 5-7 hours have been spent on this one so far.

    Forgot to say the entire airframe was riveted using Rosie The Riveter.
    That in itself was maybe 1-2 hours work, most of this time spent making sure the rivet patterns of the upper wings look about right. The underside was completed in a matter of minutes...

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Primer is on.
    As usual I went with a rattle can but as a first I choose Citadel's Chaos Black this time.

    Time to watch some paint dry...

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    Editor said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Watching this with interest... black primer excludes pre-shading, hmm...

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    I never thought about it that way, but then I don't use pre-shading very much - at least on aircraft.
    Instead I apply rather solid and uniform layers of the basic camouflage colors and then go for post-shading. Think Chris Wauchop here... 🙂

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 6 months ago:

    Today's plan to apply the underside color of RLM 76 went out the window as my sixteen year old airbrush finally decided to quit. The first layer of paint exhibited tiny metal flakes in the finish, indicating that the chrome coating inside the airbrush has begun to come loose.

    Until I have a new airbrush I decided to do some detailing work on the landing gear.
    Lengths of lead wire with narrow strips of Tamiya tape along with a few miniature nuts were added to replicate the break line present on each leg. A few details were also added to the folding support arm (for lack of proper name). Finally I drilled a set of lightening holes in each scissor link.

    From dryfitting the legs inside the bay I feel that getting the main landing gear properly aligned should be a breeze when it's time to install the landing gear.

    On a related note I happened to find a set of Eagle Parts resin wheels that I decided to use on this build.

    The kit wheels look pretty good to me but as I had those nice resin wheels lying around... 🙂

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 5 months ago:

    A new airbrush has been acquired meaning the balance and order on my workbench has now been restored. Phew! 🙂

    A coat of RLM 76 has been applied to the airframe and various loose parts - some of them pictured here.

    Forgot to mention a minor mod made to the tailwheel. The single part for the strut was carefully cut in two, allowing the main part to be trapped between the fuselage halves as per the instructions while the lower part with the wheel can then be installed at a later stage.
    Also, this allows the wheel to be rotated to either side when attached.

    A piece of brass wire provides extra strength.

    Topside camouflage should be next.

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 5 months ago:

    Time at the bench has lately been limited, preventing me from embarking on the topside camouflage painting project.

    Instead I have tinkered with the main landing gear.
    The legs were been given a base coat of RLM 02 then a gloss coat as a base for some placards. Currently pondering if the brake lines should be picked out in another color or left in 02.

    Either way a dark wash is needed to finish the legs off.
    BTW, the placard decals were taken from an old Reheat sheet.

    The wheels were painted with the Citadel black primer straight from the rattlecan which I decided was good enough to work as the final color. The tires were then brushpainted with Lifecolor dirty black.

    I see in the photo above that the demarcation between the rim and rubber is far from perfect but I am sure this will sort itself out in the weathering to follow... 🙂

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    Editor said 10 years, 5 months ago:

    Looking great. What's the silver (metal) part of the oleo? Looks very realistic to me.

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    Magnus Fridsell said 10 years, 5 months ago:

    Stumbled over this one just now, following with interest!

    What airbrush did you invest in? And what happened with your old one?

    Regards

    Magnus

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    Anders Isaksson said 10 years, 5 months ago:

    Thanks!

    @editor:
    Oops, forgot to say the oleos are wrapped with pieces of Bare Metal Foil. It worked out pretty good and I think I managed to hide the resulting seam in the foil behind the scissor link.

    @magnusf:
    Good to hear!
    Small metal flakes ended up in the paint, marring the finish. Here is a pic to show what I mean.

    As I can't find any damaged areas when examining the airbrush I figure there is something funny going on in the internals of the airbrush body where the paint flows to the nozzle.

    I had my mind set on a Badger 105 'Patriot' but in the end I went for an H&S Evolution (Solo), mostly because I know how it works and have a bunch of needles and nozzles etc from my old airbrush that I can use on this one.