Hasegawa 1/72 RF-101C Voodoo
Started this over two years ago. Got a bit distracted trying to decide what to do with all the raised panel lines that got obliterated by sanding down the seams, and other builds seemed like more fun! In the end, rather than sanding the whole thing down and re-scribing or drawing (like I did with the Fujimi F-8), I decided just to post shade and forget about it!
Dad flew the 101 out of Bentwaters in England back in the early 60’s (the Wikipedia pic I added below looks exactly like his including the tail livery – and we were there in ’62...), so I’ve always wanted to build one or two. The only way to get the non-recee C model that he flew involves a conversion nose, which I haven’t been able to find in a while. I’ll keep looking, but meanwhile I thought I’d use what was available.
Anyway – didn’t do much to it. Added some detail inside the burner cans (they were just blank), and when I realized how poorly the airbrakes fit closed, I decided that if I were going to show them open, I wanted to add some detail to the inside of the brakes and the airbrake compartment. The resin drop tanks were in the box when I got the kit (eBay), and there were no alternatives, so I used them. Added a pilot and stripped off some arm console detail from the spares box and added it into the cockpit.
Painted with Vallejo on the upper SEA and MM underneath (brush as usual). Metal section was rattle can MM metalizers with some Tamiya pastels shading to provide some dimension. Weathered as usual with powdered chalk, Tamiya weathering pastels, a bit of Tensocrom, and some black, brown and grey panel line wash around the slats and flaps. Also a bit of sliver chipping around some of the access panels. Tried out Marc Baris’ use of water color pencil/mineral spirits for some fluid leaks underneath as well. Will use that more often as I get the hang of it.
The Print Scale decal sheet I bought was HORRIBLE! Decals could not be moved once slid onto the surface, or they distorted. I only used the blue dot fin tips and tail codes, and the Iron Eyeball decal – everything else was from the spares box. Mixed results with silvering – didn’t get my Humbrol DecalFix in in time!
The other big problem I had was getting the glazing over the camera ports. I tried filling with Krystal Clear, but dried milky. Decided to thin down the clear plastic (I had added some semblance of camera lenses with clear green paint dots over yellow dot base), but then again – when I tried to use Krystal Clear to affix, it also dried milky! If I decide to enter this in a contest, I’ll probably need to pull them back out, clean up, and use something else. By the time I got this far, I just wanted to be done with it – and hope that as the Krystal Clear cured the milkiness would disappear...I did use a couple of thin coats of Krystal Clear on the nose port, and it came out ok doing it that way, although it’s a bit concave.
Anyway – done and finally in the cabinet! Sitting between an F-4 and a 105, I didn’t realize just how big the 101 was.
15 additional images. Click to enlarge.