Fw-190a-5 1/32
Hi Guys,
Here is an older build of the FW-190A-5 of Uffz Bernhard Kunze 1/JG.1. I used the decals from Eagle Cals #83. Some research prompted me to do the spinner in white, rather than yellow - I can't remember now what source
This was a complex build in that I riveted completely top and bottom with the Rosie the Riveter tool This was a surprisingly relaxing experience and I didn't have to do too much correction as I went, as long as I followed penciled in patterns carefully and didn't rush.
I really like the Hasegawa FW-190 kits. They really capture the sleek, brutish look of the 190 well and they go together without fuss. I don't do many Luftwaffe subjects, but I will definitely do more 190As and Doras in 1/32.
Paints are Tamiya and Gunze and Model Master acrylics with oil wash over a gloss coat. I finish all my models with MM Acryl flat, heavily thinned to allow some sheen. I needed to use my Iwata Custom Micron to get the mottle done right. It has been really hard for me to get the technique and avoid spatter. I now use heavily thinned paint very low pressure and a few drops of Tamiya retarder to stop drying on the nozzle. I am amazed at some of the finishes that other modelers (on this site and others) manage to achieve with mottles and squiggles freehand with an airbrush. One day I hope to get that technique down even though I remain too tense with the airbrush for now.
BTW, I am photographing these models with a new setup that has really helped with lighting and posing. I use an Ikea Fabrikor glass display cabinet with glass all around and I light it with 2 very intense “Maglehult” LED fixtures . The pictures I take with my iPad for now. I have a Canon Rebel iOs camera but I can't get enough lighting on my models indoors to get good results with adequate depth of field. Funny that the iPad is so much better than the expensive camera. Just my incompetence with proper photography of course but one day I'll figure it out.. DO you guys have any tips for shooting with an SLR and how to light it? So far only works in the brightest outdoor conditions for me.
I can post pics of my current set up if anyone is interested – it is very simple and cheap and quite effective.
Thanks for looking.
Colin
Another really nice model. I too like the Hasegawa 190s. Your result is superb.
Thanks, Tom. I just want to say that I have really benefited over the years from the stuff you have posted, including detailed kit reviews and historical narratives, as well as expert builds. Thanks for being the first to respond to my efforts and for taking the time and care to check out the details.
Very nice work, Colin. I've got this kit too; your fine job making me wanting to build mine!
I like the IKEA glass idea. I might try it, as I must definitely improve the model pics I take.
I, too, use my mobile for taking pics. Many say mobiles are totally acceptable for the photo job, so I will stick to that, especially now that I'm going to buy a new mobile. I certainly believe that digital SLR's should - and do indeed _ take better pics. Do you use a tripod? This will allow longer exposures without the risk of camera movement wit the smaller f/stop required for depth of field. This worked with my two fantastic Canon FILM cameras I still proudly own. I cannot see why it shouldn't work here. If you have no tripod, try placing the camera somewhere solid, choose a small aperture for depth of field and use the self timer.
All the best!
Thanks, Spiros. I do use a tripod and I continue to experiment with settings. Thanks to your advice, I had some more success with brightening up my pictures by adjusting exposure time and aperture priority - so many things to juggle! I am still working on getting truer colors but, of course, all lighting, including LED tends to tint things a bit off. I will post some picks of the cabinet later. For now I must get back to work. 🙂
Nicely done Colin. that's one good looking butcher bird.
Thanks, Tom. I really like the contrast of the yellow against the dark RLM splinter camo. I am pleased it turned out OK. Great quality decals helped out.
Another great looking model, and much like your previous P-40, this Wurger also looks like a very solid build.
And I agree with you, Hasegawa kits, both in the 32nd and 48th scale capture the elegant lines of the FW 190 As very nicely. As for the propeller cap being white rather than yellow I also feel you chose the best probability there. Oh, and most of my models photos here were taken with my old iPhone 6 ahah
Thanks, Pedro. That is a great compliment coming from you. I really like your "Arctic Wurger" on this site. You can almost feel the winter chill in that unusual camo. Your airbrushing is superb on that 190 as well as on other models. It is interesting how carefully the Germans adapted their camouflage styles to every theater in both armor and aircraft. At the same time, they sometimes completely defeated it with outlandish decoration like giant check patterns and painted animal forms. That was often probably strategic too to distinguish friend from foe.
BTW, I tried several times to reply to your first comment about my P-40E. There was a glitch in the site where it kept jumping to the following embedded graphic and erasing my post. It was the only one that did that. Anyway, I am glad I have another opportunity to say thanks.
Very nice!
Thanks, Robert. Glad you like it.
Great-looking 190! I see a (1/32) pattern here - you must own a warehouse to store those things (I only build 1/72...) 🙂
Thanks, Greg. I have some Ikea display cabinets that let me stack them up and keep most of the dust off. So far, I have still have room in my home office but I don't have a huge number built yet. And yes, I do prefer 1/32 scale. I like to be able to see the details and paint effectively without losing teeny tiny parts. I really respect the guys who work in smaller scales.