Nakajima Ki84-1 Hayate (Frank) 1/48 Hasegawa

Started by Eric Berg · 57 · 4 years ago · Hasegawa, Nakajima Ki-84 Hayate (Frank)
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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    This is a "Class A" finish, Eric (@eb801). I always have trouble controlling the chipping, but you have perfected the process. Back in the "old days" I used rubber cement in the same way you are using masking fluid, but could never get the chips to look right. Now I use chipping fluid, which helps make things random.

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Looking good! I haven't used masking fluid for chipping - I believe it is much heavier than the typical "chipping fluids" you can buy - most modern paint suppliers have them now. You pull them off with a wet, short-bristled paint brush, so a bit more control than just ripping up with tape, and I believe you can vary how much you actually take off versus how much fluid you applied, so when you like what you've got you can stop. I haven't tried them myself yet, but some of the guys in our club have become pretty proficient with them.

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    Eric Berg said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Thanks George and Greg for the comments. Rubber cement. Wow. I forgot all about that stuff. I didn't know there's a specific product called "chipping fluid". I will have to look into this. You guys have any brand recommendations?

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    Jeremy Millan said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Great chipping technique! Looks realistic. Mig makes a chipping fluid but a lot of people use hairspray instead.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Hi Eric @eb801. Like Erik @airbum, I have used only Maskol and just for masking those intricate spots, being happy with it (apart from that distinctive smell...). It sticks well and detaches equally well, without any issues whatsoever. I found out that I can dilute Maskol with water, which might be helpful for your implementation of the sponge technique.

    One note, though: I have only used it with enamels, so I cannot comment for its behaviour with acrylics; normally, there shouldn't be any issue.

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    Eric Berg said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Spiros - someone else mentioned Maskol. The problem with AMMO liquid mask it doesn't stick to the surface very well and it’s impossible to remove from a paint brush so I only apply it with tooth picks and cut up artist sponges.

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    Colin Gomez said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Hi Eric. Your chipping looks great. For something completely different, I have actually tried white glue directly over a Rub n Buff undercoat. It worked very well and didn't harm the "metal" underneath. The white glue was the very weak "Elmer's School Glue" we have in Canada (not sure where you are). It might work as well as masking fluid and I am pretty sure would be fine over Tamiya clear. Just a thought. I thing you have achieved great results already. I am still ambivalent about the salt chi pping method I am experimenting with for my Shiden Kai. It really fades the paint as well a peeling it and leaves a quite rough surface. Love the work you have done on your Hayate so far.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 3 months ago:

    Hi Eric @eb801!

    I believe Maskol may stick better.

    Indeed, liquid masks will destroy paint brushes. May I suggest to take an old unusable, say #0 synthetic (ie hard bristles) paintbrush, cut the bristles really short and use this for applying the liquid mask. This might resemble the sponge effect and the brush can more or less be cleaned (let liquid mask dry and then remove with your finger...), to be reused only for this technique again. If you use Maskol, you may dilute it with water a bit to applied easier (possibly other liquid mask brands may be dilutable). Well, just an idea...

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    Eric Berg said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    It's been a week since I made any progress now it's Wednesday and I finally have something to show.

    After weathering the Hayate a bit more with powders and highlighting using Tamiya panel line color for the first time (I'm hooked now). I'm a bit concerned I may be overdoing it.

    I recently read somewhere online that the real reason Japanese planes looked so worn and chipped is simple: often these aircraft lacked a primer coats between the bare metal and the final colors and not because of poor quality paint.

    Back to the paint shop for a faint misting of thinned light white-grey followed by a couple of Dullcoate airbrush passes.

    Now waiting for the stink to dissipate. Guess I'll go work on the already painted landing gear and wheel assemblies.

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    Eric Berg said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Colin - Sorry for the tardy reply. Thanks for the compliment on my chipping attempts here. By the way the Hayate you built on your model gallery is outstanding. I like you you do minimalist weathering on all your planes. Just the right amount. I find it too easy to get carried away and overdue it and I worry I have just fallen into that trap. And yes we have Elmer's glue here in California. In fact there's a bottle on my workbench right now. As far as the salt technique, I tried it once on a that updated Tamiya Zero and it worked okay but I wouldn't do it again. Too dicey.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Hi Eric @eb801!
    Your weathering looks really good.

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    Eric Berg said 4 years, 2 months ago:


    It's Sunday and the Hayate is now standing up on it's own three legs. Getting close to the finish line! What an enjoyable kit this is.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Looking great on its feet, Eric! A very realistic posture!

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Very nice @eb801, I like the worn look a lot.

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    Eric Berg said 4 years, 2 months ago:

    Thanks guys. I hope I haven’t overdone the worn look but that is what I’m aiming at.