1/72 Hasegawa Mirage F.1C in Hellenic Air Force Markings

Started by George R Blair Jr · 43 · 3 years ago · 1/48, Hasegawa, Hellenic Air Force, Mirage, Mirage F.1c, Mirage F.1CG
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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Thanks, Erik (@airbum). I can't picture you running out of 109s anytime soon, but I would be interested in seeing the difference between my ancient Hasegawa F1 and the newer Special Hobby kits.

    I got a little more done today. I glued the landing gear onto the plane yesterday using the last of my Testor's glue, and then I set aside for 12 or more hours to be sure it is completely solid. The attachment points were more of a suggestion than anything positive, so getting the double bogies of the main gear lined up was a chore. I know a lot of builders like to save the landing gear until the painting is done, but I like to set the plane on its gear while I am painting the rest of the plane.



    Folded the microscopic gun sight and got it glued into the cockpit. The Hasegawa kit has no provision for a gunsight, I had to make a mount for the photoetch. The "glass" was fun. Luckily Eduard provided spares, since the first one is in the carpet somewhere. Added a drop of Future over the circular lens on the photoetch gunsight.


    Tailpipe is painted and ready to go.

    Canopy tomorrow and paint soon after.

    Thanks for dropping by and cheers everyone. Stay safe.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years ago:

    Very tiny, George @gblair
    Some great work on that gunsight.
    You should have a steady hand to do that kind of detailing in 1/72 scale

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years ago:

    Nice progress, my friend @gblair!
    All those small details REALLY add up to the model looks. A well made cockpit, like yours, makes the difference in "modern" jet models.
    Tailpipe looks great, and the airbrakes really stand out.
    Landing gear is nicely installed.
    Looking forward to your progress!

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    Erik Gjørup said 3 years ago:

    That must be a gunsight for a really small eyeball Mk 1? I have to tell you that I will not run out of 109's for at least another week (or decade?), but boy, is the F1 on my list! I am all with you on placing it on the landinggear as soon as possible. IMHO it makes everything a lot easier, and you do not HAVE to park it on its wheels if you can rest it on its wings if you worry about the integrity.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb), Spiros (@fiveten), and Erik (@airbum). I am not sure about the steady hand. When you get to my age (70), things like eyesight and steady hands stop working like they are supposed to. I'm not sure why I started putting the gear on prior to painting, but I have been doing it a long time. One of these days I will try painting a plane prior to attaching the landing gear.

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    Colin Gomez said 3 years ago:

    That's some fine detail work on your Mirage F.1, George. The ejection seat could easily pass for 1/48. The "microscopic" cockpit detail parts you show would be too much for me to handle. I only do larger subjects in 1/72 like my Valiant and Vulcan partly because I don't have tools that are up to manipulating such tiny bits. All the work you are putting in to refining the external details like the speed brakes will really look good in the end. It is interesting about the landing gear going on early. My Kinetic Super Etendard instructions "require" you to attach the nose gear early in the build so even some kit makers assume you can do this. I worked a fix to avoid this - mainly to ease painting and avoid breakage. Whatever works best for the individual model IS best. Looking forward to seeing this come together.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Thanks for the kind words, Colin (@coling). Surprisingly I have never knocked the landing gear off a plane I was building, but I am usually pretty careful with the plane once I glue the struts on. There was a time in my life when everything I built was 1/72, but as I got older I realized the benefits of 1/48 and 1/32 models. I have gotten rid of most of my smaller scale planes. After Spiros posted photos of an actual F.1CG, I wanted to build a model of one in Greek markings, and the only kit I had was 1/72.

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    Allan J Withers said 3 years ago:

    Nicely detailed George, looking good.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Thanks, Allan (@kalamazoo).

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    Adrian Starling said 3 years ago:

    George, I must apologise as I have just picked up on your F1 build and I am so impressed and you are setting new boundaries with your incredible build. The cockpit is brilliant and I must be honest as I battled in 1/24 and this is in 1/72, hats off to you sir! The speed brakes drilled out really adds great appeal to your wonderful machine. I will be watching the rest of the build with very keen interest! Thank you.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Things were really going well on this build, so I should have known that problems were about to show up. I got the plane ready to paint and headed down to the paint booth. I started by doing some shadowing with black paint, although I didn't think it would be visible after all the colors had been applied. While I had the black loaded in the airbrush, I also painted the canopy framing. I planned to have the canopy open, but I had temporarily tacked the canopy down as a perfectly-sized paint mask. (This proves to be a problem...more on this later).



    The decal instructions have a color diagram for the camouflage, along with the appropriate colors listed by FS number. I pulled the required colors out of the Hataka set I had purchased and started to apply the paints. I had never used Hataka before, and found them to be very easy to use. They are acrylic lacquers, and I used Hataka thinner to prepare them for spraying. They dry quickly and very smooth. Once dry, the surface is very robust and had no trouble handling layers of masking tape. As with many modern camouflages, the colors are very close in shade and sometimes it became difficult to see what had been painted and what hadn't.

    When I got all of the colors applied, the darkest color didn't look quite right. I expected a slightly blue-gray color, but the Hataka color was just a darker gray. I thought perhaps the colors listed on the decal diagram were incorrect, but not only did they match the FS numbers in the Hataka set, but they matched the colors I found listed on several sites online. The Hataka color also matches the color chip for the appropriate FS number. I checked several photos of this camouflage online, and in some photos the color looks gray, and in others it has a blue tint. In the end, I decided to just stick to the color that is currently on the plane.

    The next step was to spray some Tamiya clear gloss onto the plane in preparation for the decals. My hobby table and my spray booth are in different rooms, one floor and about 30 steps apart. When I arrived at the paint booth, I discovered that my temporarily tacked canopy had become untacked somewhere. I have spent the last couple of days in search of my MIA canopy, but no luck. I have called off the search parties. I figure my cat has probably added my canopy to her hidden stash of shiny stuff. I do have a 2nd Mirage F.1C kit which I had planned to sell in the consignment section of my local hobby shop, but I guess this kit just became the solution to my missing canopy.

    After the clear had dried 24 hours, I applied the decals. I had used XtraDecals before and thought they were a bit thick. This sheet of decals was the exact opposite. They were very thin and had a propensity to fold back on themselves. I managed to get most of the decals on the model, but several of the don't walk stripes proved impossible to apply without folding. These stripes are not visible on several of the online photos I found, so I don't feel too bad about their demise.




    That's it for now. After the decals dry for 24 hours, I will apply some semi-gloss to seal the decals, and then some light weathering. Everyone stay safe. Cheers.

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    Greg Kittinger said 3 years ago:

    Love it George! 1/72, and I really like the Aegean Ghost scheme. I didn't realize the Mirage flew in it (even if only one aircraft), so I may have to add this to the project list and secure a set of those decals! I have the Akan/Akah water-based acrylic paints for the Ghost scheme to use on my HAF Phantom, so will see how they compare... I've not used the Hataka but am getting good results with the AK Real Colors, so glad to see those appear similar.

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    George R Blair Jr said 3 years ago:

    Thanks, Greg (@gkittinger). Spiros (@fiveten) could probably be more definitive, but I think the F1CGs had this paint scheme in the last year before they were retired. An HAF Phantom is really high on my list to do. Many of the photos you find online show a really well-used paint scheme which I think would be really fun to try and replicate. I think the Greek T-2 Buckeye would also be fun for the same reasons. I have heard of Akan paints, but don't know anything about them. Tamiya and AK Real Colors are my go-to paints right now. The Hataka paints went on well, but were hard to clean out of the airbrush. Its own thinner will clean it, but it is awful expensive to use for cleanup.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 3 years ago:

    Good morning my friends @gblair and @gkittinger!

    Two Mirage F.1s, s/n's 140 and 121 received the Aegean Ghost scheme a little time before their retirement. Of them, only 121 flew, the 140 never flew (it's airframe hours had expired).

    140 was repainted at its "normal" dark blue over aluminum Aegean Blue camo and is today a static display outside the Officers Mess at my base. I will search for the fate of 121.

    I also believe that 140 was painted first, as an experiment, with the 121 following the successful results, but will check on those.

    Ghost F-4s are matte, they weather very interestingly, as their shades "deplete" and come "close" to each other, kind of becoming a "homogeneous" general bluish/grayish shade.

    If in need, I can provide you with many pics.

    George, your F.1 looks wonderful. The "correct" ghost shades are very subjective, as this scheme changes with different light conditions and weathers quickly!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 3 years ago:

    Fantastic paint results, George @gblair
    The scheme turned out great on your F1.
    A real gem nearing completion.