Much to my surprise, the wings went on fine, despite the warped and twisted wing spars. I suspect the time I took to be sure the cockpit floor was clamped in place in the fuselage while the glue dried insured that the floor was flat, which, in-turn, pulled the twist out of the spars. The tight fit of the fuselage over and around the spars also reduced the warp in the spars to a usable level. Yeah!

2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

Thanks, Allan (@kalamazoo). I have built other kits from the newer Airfix molds, and they were fine. I think this one was pulled out of the mold too quickly, but it is going together well despite the warps.

Glad to hear all is well, George @gblair!
Those warped parts kind of twist and bend and finally bed into place.
Love the cockpit!
Was it an India made kit?

Hey George ! @gblair
This is a great conversion, and I'm very impressed with the work you have done so far. I think you are on track with your color choices, especially the yellow lower color. Here is a color chip chart showing most of the RAF colors in use during this time.

I found this online a while ago when I was building multiple Spitfires for the 100 Years of the RAF group build that our dear friend Paul Barber hosted. There's a small number on the bottom right hand corner that is supposed to be the closest FS color standards matching number. I have a FS color chip book, so if you want me to scan anything for you, please don't hesitate to ask.

For me, doing the research and finding out the history behind the men and the aircraft they flew is just as much fun as the actual building process.

I'll be watching, and I hope this color chart is of some help for you somewhere along the way. It's also nice to have it as a reference for future RAF builds too. Take care my friend and stay safe.

Thanks for sharing this interesting website George @gblair
Very helpful to have all those corresponding numbers of each brand combined in an overview.

Thanks, Erik (@airbum). I looked at the box and didn't find anything that would indicate where the model was manufactured. I am having all sorts of problems that can be traced back to some quality control issues.

Thanks, John (@JohnB). I use this website fairly often. It seems to be well-organized and has the info that I use most.

Today was one of those semi-catastrophic days. Things were going well and it was time to assemble the engines and nacelles. The circumference of the nacelles is made up of three different parts, each being 1/3 of the nacelle. These, in turn, attach to the front of the nacelle. The kit nacelle front piece is replaced by a resin piece from the conversion set.

The problem came up when I went to the sprue to gather the 6 pieces needed to form the two nacelles. Sadly, there were only five pieces on the sprue, and a big empty spot where the last part should be. I searched the box, and the plastic bag the parts were in, and the part was still MIA. I did a thorough search around my workbench and didn't find it. When I am working, the sprues are never anywhere except the box until I cut a part off, and then they go back to the box. It is possible that I mislaid the part, but I suspect that the part was never in the box. In any case, I went to the Airfix website to find a statement that do not have spare or replacement parts for any of their kits. Plan A down the drain. On to Plan B: see if I had another nacelle that I could use. In my stash I discovered a Mk X by Hasegawa, a Mk X by Revell, and another Mk X from Airfix. The simplest solution would be to rob the needed part from the Airfix kit, especially since the nacelles from the other kits would require some work to get them to fit the Airfix kit. I hesitate to pull the trigger here because the donor kit becomes a box of spare parts as soon as I steal something from it. Gonna need to think about this for a bit.

Cheers, and everyone stay safe.