A Messerschmitt 109 for two

Started by Erik Gjørup · 86 · 2 years ago · Bf109, Bf109G-12, CS-199, CS-99, HA1110-K1L, HA1112-M4L, Messerschmitt, UMe 109
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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Draggin’ along

    With a few broken tailwheels in my builds, a win-win is tested

    As in most builds tailwheels and antennas brake along the way, a new approach is tried. In some kits you can leave out the tailwheel till the very last moment, but in the eduard kit that is only an option with the short version, others have to be placed before closing the fuselage.

    To keep the final assembly till last, I have simply cut off the oleo, and drill a hole.



    In order to do that you either have to have some spares, or modify another part (there are 4 or 5 different tailwheel gear legs in the standard kit)

    As I have several leftovers I used two of the same (number 45) and modified the piston-part to be inserted into the fuselage part at the very end of the build.



    In the picture above you can see the difference between a standard and modified part.

    The cockpit also received the last attention today in preparation for IP’s and the very last details before fuselage assembly – will be nice to reach that milestone.


    The rear cockpit is the resin AM while the front is all standard with profipack details

    next up I hope to have the fuselage assembled, but no promises here as I usually work in a rather chaotic manner. . . .

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    James B Robinson said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Great little tip there Erik @airbum, I will clip this and save for the future. Looking forward to the rest of this build!

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Thanx @jamesb - next tip comin' up in a minute!

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Oh no – my 109 had a puncture

    And it aint even out of the hangar yet!

    Oh well – I decided to try to make some “weight-on-wheels” tyres for my 109 fleet, and as there are so many extras in the box, I have plenty to experiment with. And so, it is not even certain that any will be used in this build, but nevertheless – lets go;

    In order to make the tyres bulge, I set up a candle and found a dull blade. The blade was duly heated over the candle, and with the tyre still on the sprue it was a matter of hitting the right temperature and pressure.

    Now, it was found that it would be a good plan to add a rim!


    Now, how do I know – lets change focus to the tyre on the table;

    That about says it all?

    A bit heavy on the heat and pressure?




    And so, with a little experimenting it all turned out to be more or less a success. In typical “iron-werk” fashion (here in the future referred to as HalfWorks – explained elsewhere) I then prepared a few sets of rims and tyres and went to the airbrushing.

    Well – up till now it hasn’t been a lot of two-seater, so just one last picture to show that a bit of progress has been made;


    The interior has been glued to the left wall, the right only employed for support and alignment purposes.

    With the HalfWorks chaotic assemblyline in full swing, one never knows what is up next – stay tuned on this and my other 109 builds to find out!

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    Greg Kittinger said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    just catching up with your 109 assembly line - amazing work on all of them! Keep sharing your experiments tried and lessons learned, as I'm learning along with you! Kudos!

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    109 tires are more difficult than the average tire because the landing gear sits at an angle. I think your "experimental" tires came out great.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 9 months ago:

    Thank you @gkittinger, willco!

    @gblair, right you are - and there are two different angles depending on what mark you are building! (more "upright" on later versions - those with bulges in the wing)

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Instruments gets glass and exhausts are secured

    With the assembly of the fuselage nearing, exhausts gets secured and work commences on the instrument panel

    My Swiss 109 G-6 lost its exhausts, and though they were recovered from within the fuselage it proved very difficult to fish them out and get them back in the right location from the inside of the assembled plane!

    To save me from a lot of sweat and so forth, I plastered the exhausts on the G-12 with Revell Contacta and glued a piece of evergreen on the back of the entire assembly.



    Hopefully that will keep it in place!

    And on to the instruments – the rear had been made from some leftovers, and the front one will be eduard standard photo-etch.

    I have mentioned in a previous build that the small red handle might be better off being located BEFORE assembling the panel


    And so I did just that – worked like a charm (had to be re-glued though after some sanding to remove a locating tap)

    Now, you may have seen the next step in one of my previous builds, but here we go again. To depict glass, I use Tamiya gloss clear, brushed to the backside and left to dry.



    You may have noticed that one of the dials are perfect, the others had too thick a layer, so be careful not to use more than is needed!

    And that is that – next up – well who knows? Stay tuned, feel free to comment

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    George R Blair Jr said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Using Tamiya clear gloss for instrument glass is a great technique that I have not seen before. The results are great.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    @gblair - I think I got the tip off youtube. Clearly it needs to be on a photoetch panel to work, but then it is very realistic, even though the light has to be at an exact angle to be noticeable. It is however those little things that makes a difference I think. Another update will be here in a few minutes.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Get together party

    With details added, it is time to get some major sub-assemblies done

    First a few pictures of the IP (Instrument Panel);



    Not the best pictures, as I had to move on before seeing them on screen.

    The exhausts were pre-painted, and will be detailed after painting the plane, thus they were masked with tape and maskol.



    There is room for a piece of tape to be inserted (there has to be room for a PE screenplate later on)

    The fuselage/wing assembly on the G-4 (the basekit used here) seems to have a little bit of a fit-issue at the root, and some work takes care of that.






    And with that in place it is set aside to cure

    The observant modeler might have noticed that one of the seatbelts fell off – it is safely recovered and will get superglue later on.

    As usual comments are encouraged – and I have more or less given up on telling whats next. You have to stay tuned to find out as I haven’t got a clue!

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    James B Robinson said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    I have a clue...More Great Modeling! Looking good.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Thank you @jamesb, very kind indeed. Another post shortly, but just a minor update on this kite.

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 8 months ago:

    Navigating the nightskies

    This time the Navigationlights are added

    I have showed how I make wingtip lights before, and this is just a very short update for this particular build. As usual I have started with flattening a piece of clear sprue, drilling holes and painting them red and green.



    After painting the individual pieces are cut down to make the rear fit the wing, then it gets superglued in place, tape is used to keep the wing free from scratches, and it is a matter of filing a rough shape, then sanding down to the final polishing stick.

    And it takes some 15 minutes to make a fine light with a bit of practice – roughly the same as just painting and touching up the paint I guess, and the endresult looks a lot better.

    This build is about to round the difficult part – the canopy. Anyone care to share some wac-form links or tips and tricks, please do so! Any and all info is appreciated

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    Erik Gjørup said 4 years, 7 months ago:

    Filler!

    Before getting the glass underway some masking for filler and filling the filler

    With the lights in place, some areas needing filler are masked



    That way there is far less to sand and file, and the risk of loosing detail minimized

    The filler is just added by cocktailstick and left to cure




    Then it will be an easy task to remove the tape and go over it all with a few sandingsticks, ending with a superfine, the one just before a polisher, and all looks great.

    I hope to get the canopy underway next