Not every ending is a happy one RIP 1/48 Tamiya P-51D

Started by David Butler · 14 · 1 year ago
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    David Butler said 2 years ago:

    If there was a "Works No Longer In Progress" section I would post this there. This is a cautionary tale and a admission of my own silliness.

    After enjoying a productive summer on the bench I tried to cut some corners this fall and make an attempt at finishing my 1/48 P-51D Tamiya Mustang with a combination of my usual Vallejo acrylics and for the first time ever- spray cans!

    Initial progress went well. This was going to be great- aftermarket decals, Eduard PE, masks, etc. Everything was clicking along just great until the spray paint went on. Orange peel finish, coats that were too thick obscuring detail, and dust that marred the finish.

    Unwilling to let all of my hard work go to waste, out came the lacquer thinner. I was going to strip off the paint and try again- this time with no spray cans. I had some success, getting about 50% of the paint off until I noticed that the surface of the plastic was beginning to melt and look like sandpaper. Out came the sanding sticks as the desperation set in. After lots of sanding in an attempt to smooth down the surface, I tried one more desperation attempt of acrylic. Sadly, the results unsatisfactory 🙁

    What to do? Diorama duty? trash can? I opted for the later but managed to crack open the fuselage and save the cockpit that I worked so hard on along with some of the parts that had not yet been added to the model.

    In the end all that was left was a bag of spare parts, a lesson learned, and a not so happy ending.

    What not so happy endings do you have? Has anyone had success with spray cans? Let me know!

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    Tom Cleaver said 2 years ago:

    Don't use lacquer thinner to strip paint. Use paint stripper. A good one is Easy Lift Off, but you cannot leave it on the surface long or it will eat the plastic.

    If you're going to use a rattle can, mist the paint on in successive coats, letting it dry in between.

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    Jaime Carreon said 2 years ago:

    I've used spray cans quite a bit. Shoot several light coats from 8-10 inches away and don't let off the button in the middle of a paint pass. The larger cans tend to spray a lot thicker, so a little care is needed. My favorites are the Tamiya spray cans, but I've used Rustoleum with good results as well.

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    George Williams said 2 years ago:

    Hi David @dbutler, sorry to read of your experiences with the spray cans. For domestic reasons, my modelling area is also our dining table, I don’t use an airbrush, but I am able to use spray cans in a communal area of our building. I almost exclusively use Tamiya products which seem to work very well as long you follow the instructions. The only time I’ve had problems is when I’ve tried to apply a too heavy coat in one go, in which case I’ve wiped off the excess while it’s still wet and sanded smooth when dry.

    I think mixing different manufacturers’ products often causes problems.

    Happy modelling, George

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 2 years ago:

    Pity such a thing happened, my friend @dbutlr. Guess following our above Friends advices is the way to go with spray cans

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    John vd Biggelaar said 2 years ago:

    It is always a sad moment when a model ends up this way, David @dbutlr.
    The only rattle cans I use are for coatings but I definitely prefer painting with airbrush.
    Plastic and paint strippers are simply not a good combination, you can use them but have to take care a lot.

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    George R Blair Jr said 2 years ago:

    Sorry you lost your model, David (@dbutlr). I use spray cans a lot, but there is a learning curve associated with them. My first tries were also chaotic and featured heavy paint application complete with paint "runs" from too much paint. I finally learned to slowly build the color using thin, misted coats of paint. I never use spray cans if I have to mask other colors because it will almost always leave a ridge of paint next to the tape. I use Tamiya and Vallejo sprays primarily, and have found Airfix metallic sprays to work well. I gave up regular lacquer thinner a long time ago because of how toxic it can be. I have a container of synthetic lacquer thinner around for cleaning stuff which is supposed to be less toxic and less smelly.

    I use mainly acrylics now and strip the paint with Windex if needed. I wouldn't give up on spray cans, but practice with the cans.

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    David Butler said 2 years ago:

    @tcinla Thanks for the tips- I think given all of the advice I received from this post that I wont give up entirely on spray cans but shelve them for now until I have a suitable test subject (a 1/48 Revell P-51D from HobbyLobby perhaps?)

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    David Butler said 2 years ago:

    @gblair glad to know that I'm not the only one who has struggled to master the spray cans- your totally right about the tape ridge, I encountered that problem too! It was a sad end to an otherwise really nice model but I've learned some valuable lessons along the way. Thanks for the response!

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    Stephen W Towle said 2 years ago:

    George has some good advise. If your going to be in the hobby long term, spray cans can be used as apart of your tool box but, having a spray gun and a compressor in the long run, helps saves money by not wasting all that paint from over spray from the can. Worrying about drift, keeping your significant other happy. Spraying small amounts of paint and being able to better control the amount being used. Also, your not breathing propellants from the can is added plus.

    I've been forced into using acrylics, some of the first acrylics where not very good, but, the latest crop has been pretty good. For me it boils down to health reasons. For some folks its a matter of budget reasons, once in while I do cheat.

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    Bill Koppos said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Ah there's plenty of fish in the sea, get rid of her and get another one. 🙂 I hear East-Off Oven cleaner gets all paint off. Will not harm plastic.

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    Louis Gardner said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    Bill Koppos (@billkoppos)
    Easy Off oven cleaner works great for removing enamel paint. I have used it on numerous occasions. You have to spray it on heavy, and let it sit for around 5-10 minutes. It will start to foam shortly after you spray it on. This is normal.
    I usually brush it at this point with an old tooth brush to get into the nooks and crannies.

    Rinse it off with water and repeat as necessary. Usually it will remove all of the paint in three applications as I described above.

    The bad part is the smell. You must have good ventilation when you spray it on. It will take your breath away if you accidentally inhale it... not recommended to do that.

    It will also splatter when you use the paint brush to scrub the model. I wear safety glasses to keep from getting it in my eyes.

    I rinse the sink out well afterwards too. It can damage the chrome fixtures if you allow it to remain on the chrome parts, so be sure to rinse everything down in the area afterwards.

    It also works great on old car parts too... 😉

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    Jay Mitchell said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    I’ve found that if I warm up the spray can in hot water it sprays better.

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    Eric Berg said 1 year, 11 months ago:

    David @dbutir: too bad about your rattle can disaster. I’ve been there. Removing lacquer paint off styrene is a heck of a lot of frustrating work often turning into a second disaster. Lacquer thinner runs hot and will melt the plastic so avoid that. TC’s suggestion using paint stripper sounds like a good possibility. I prefer decanting rattle can lacquers and using an airbrush for more control. Save yourself another headache. Salvage what you can from your P-51 and get another kit. It’s all part of the learning curve despite the frustration,disappointment and expense. You certainly have a lot great tips now to work with.

    And yes, initially warming up rattle cans in warm water is rule no.1 Make sure the can doesn’t feel cold before using.