Trio of Hudsons in 1/72

Started by George R Blair Jr · 355 · 10 months ago · 1/72, 3D printing, Italeri, Lockheed Hudson, MPM, Revell
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    George R Blair Jr said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Thanks, John (@johnb). This will be the Hudson from the Dutch Sq. I was surprised to find the aluminum paint on the belly, but I think it will look cool.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Excellent progress, my friend @gblair! Indeed, the aluminum belly is very cool!
    Looking forward to your decals' approach and your next steps on this awesome project!

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    George R Blair Jr said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten). Top camo next on this one, while working to get the last two Hudsons up to this point.

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    Carl Smoot said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Nice progress on painting George (@gblair). I am curious about Vallejo's acrylic metallics? My only other experience with Acrylic metallics was Mission Models and I was not happy with the way they looked (although they sprayed well enough). But they looked too much like paint rather than the metallic look I was looking for. So I would be curious to here about these. I've heard good things about this line of metallics.

    I do like the metallic finish on the undersides of the Hudson. I have a Hawker hunter finished in a similar manner. It is an attractive color combination.

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    George R Blair Jr said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hi, Carl (@clipper): I like using the Vallejo metallics. They are easy to spray, dry quickly, and look good after. They are supposed to be airbrush-ready, but I always thin them with about 10% Vallejo thinner. The belly of the Hudson was applied using Humbrol Aluminum from a spray can. I also like the Humbrol metallic colors in spray cans. They are easy to spray and give a good-looking finish. I used the Vallejo metals to apply the shading to the base color, although I have used them to apply an overall bare metal finish. I haven't had a lot of luck using Alclad. Ammo by Mig also has a line of metallic paints that have good reviews, but I haven't tried them.

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    Eric Berg said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hey there George @gblair. I also like Vallejo metallics for the most part but I have great success with Alclad which to me look the most realistic of any BMF out there. What bad luck issues are you having with Alclad?

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    Eric Berg said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hey there George @gblair. I also like Vallejo metallics for the most part but I have great success with Alclad which to me look the most realistic of any BMF out there. What bad luck issues are you having with Alclad?

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    Carl Smoot said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    I also understand that the Ammo Mig metallics are slightly reformulated Alclad, but essentially the same. At least that's what I heard.

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    George R Blair Jr said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hi Eric (@eb801) and Carl (@clipper): I avoided natural metal finishes for a long time, and just started using metallic paints about 6 months ago. I started with Vallejo, so that is what I am most comfortable with. I dabbled with Alclad a few months ago. I like the way it looks, but I had trouble masking over it. Tamiya tape would often pull chips out of the Alclad, which would require sanding and repainting. I found I could successfully mask with post-it notes, but they won't work well with curved or irregular surfaces. So, my current plan is to semi-avoid natural metal finishes, and use either Vallejo metals or Humbrol metallics when I need them.

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    Carl Smoot said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    I had trouble with masking using AK Extreme Metal when I did my recent F-80 and had to overcoat with Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss. The problem I had was not pulling away, but rather tape marks in the finish. Perhaps if I had let the paint dry for several days and maybe also de-tacked the tape, it might have worked better. That's an experiment for another day. I have a Tamiya F-84 I did in 2000 using Alclad and I had no issues with masking. So who knows. I think de-tacking is a definite must do with these. Also, get the masking tape off as quickly as possible. One last thing I heard was that a light mist coat afterwards of the base color can often hide the masking marks. Again, an experiment for another day.

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    George R Blair Jr said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): I haven't tried AK Extreme yet, but have seen some good work with it. I have had similar problems with tape marks in the paint. I think part of it is impatience on my part. I sometimes mask too soon after painting the preceding color, and it feels dry, but I think it just isn't completely cured. I have solved that by waiting 24 hours after painting before I do anything with the model. The other issue is the climate around here in central Texas. I grew up in El Paso where the humidity rarely went higher than 10%, but here 60-80% is normal. Paint takes forever to dry on humid days. I check the humidty before I start painting so I can add some drying time on really humid days. I also pull the tape off my model as soon as I can. Getting the tape off quickly can prevent a lot of problems.

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    George R Blair Jr said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Today was painting day for my first Hudson. It has the standard brown/green camo scheme. I decided I wanted to mask to get the camo rather than trying to freehand the camo with my airbrush. I know this gives the model a hard edge camo, but in photos the actual airplane displays a tight demarcation line. This is just my opinion, but I think in this scale that planes with tight demarcation lines should be depicted with a hard line on the model. I just don't think a tight demarcation would be visible in 1/72.

    Having already painted the undersurfaces, I masked the demarcation between the belly color and the upper colors with a freehand wavy mask. I used 2mm Tamiya tape to create the curved demarcation lines on the cowlings. When everything was masked, I painted the entire upper part of the plane with AK Real Colors RAF Dark Earth thinned about 30% with AK Thinner. I was surprised to see that my pre-shading actually showed through the brown. I didn't think it would. I have a rule that I always let the paint dry 24 hours before I mask over it. I took the time to create the masks for the green camo. I took a 4-view drawing of an early Hudson and enlarged it to 1/72 scale. I then robbed my wife's cooking equipment for some parchment paper. I don't know what she uses this for in cooking, but it works perfectly for creating tape masks. I started by cutting a piece of parchment paper a little bigger than I needed for the mask, then covering the paper with the easy to remove type of Frog Tape. I then cut out the mask I needed and taped it to the Frog Tape. Then I simply used some scissors to cut out the mask. Once this was done, I peeled the parchment paper off the tape and applied the mask to the plane. The thing I like about parchment paper is that the Frog Tape is easy to remove. I cut masks for each wing, the top of the horizontal stabilizer, each vertical stabilizer, the top of the plane, and the sides of the plane. These quick masks never quite meet to make a continuous mask, so I connect the masks using Tamiya tape.

    I checked the dark earth and it felt completely dry. It has been unusually dry here, so I think the paint dried quickly. I decided to break my 24 hour rule by adding the masks just 4 or 5 hours after I had painted the first layer. I added all the masks and sprayed AK Real Colors Dark Green diluted about 30%. Once that was done, I added a few drops of white and sprayed some random spots on the green. After that, I sprayed some more random spots using dark green with some black added. I waited about an hour and removed the masks. Done for the day. This time I really will let the paint dry for 24 hours.

    Cheers.

    8 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Carl Smoot said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Hot Diggity, it's really coming alive with the paint on it George (@gblair). Looks great. I love it when I get to the painting stage and see the results of months of work. Congratulations on this next milestone. Looking great.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Great to see the camouflage on, George @gblair
    To me the colors look very good, they will ikely turn slightly darker when applying a wash.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 11 months, 3 weeks ago:

    Looking gorgeous, my friend @gblair! You are right about the demarcation lines.