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Tamiya 1/35 Scale FLAK 37 Anti-Aircraft Gun

October 6, 2013 in Armor

Lately, I’ve been in a rut when it comes to working on any of my current AC projects so I figured that I would put them away and tackle some subjects that I usually don’t model. This FLAK gun model is one of my non- AC projects. I got cracking on it Wed last and just finished this morning. The model is built OOB, painted with MM enamel, weathered with a burn umber wash, lead pencil for chipping detail, and some subtle dry brushing. The weathering shows better in person than in the photos and I am not really into making my models look grungy. I usually spray a final flat coat using Floquil acrylic. Well, I ran out of the old formulation (out of production) and had to use the new formulation (made by Testors I believe)…the stuff was a complete disappointment to me as the final effect was anything but dead flat-more of a semi-gloss making chipping with a primsacolor or regular pencil difficult to apply. (anyone know of a good acrylic FLAT paint?) The base was purchased from a local crafts store, landscape was made from rail road grass and tree detail stuff I had laying around and the dirt is from my back yard. In the end, I really enjoyed building this model as it was a nice departure from my normal modeling palette and expanded my modeling technique and skill sets.

5 additional images. Click to enlarge

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16 responses to Tamiya 1/35 Scale FLAK 37 Anti-Aircraft Gun

  1. Erich,
    I use the Testors Model Master acrylic flat as it really gives a dead flat finish. The thing with this acrylic flat is it needs to be shaken/stirred really well, then strained into a paint jar. I use a piece of pantyhose as my strainer. It takes a few minutes to strain it through the pantyhose but it is worth it, as the pantyhose catches all that undisolved white stuff that usually causes that milky appearance. From there I thin with Testors acrylic thinner and a few drops of Liquitex “Flow-Aid”. I always get a clear dead flat finish. By the way, the Floquil acrylic flat is still available in their line of paints for model railroading.

    Personally, I find that a slight sheen on an aircraft or tank is quite realistic. Hell, they were made of metal and will always have a sheen. Plus, a slight sheen brings out the weathering effects as opposed to a flat finish which tends to mute weathing.

    What it come down to is an old Irish saying “Its a matter of taste, the woman said, as she kissed a cow on the arse”.

    • Seamus, you’re entirely correct. A slight sheen is always appropriate. After I shoot “gloss” (for decaling), I shoot “matte” instead of “flat”, for the final coat. There’s just enough difference to make a difference.

    • Seamus,thanks for the tips on straining and thinning the MM flat paint. I’ll look for the Floquil acrylic in the “train dept”.

      • Erich, you can also try the following, mix one part Tamiya flat base with ten parts Future for a flat/satin effect or one part Tamiya flat base to three parts Future for a dead flat effect. Kinda a PIA to mix, but it works.

    • Seamus I’m a little worried about your continual use of panty hose, is this yours, or your wife’s?

      • Well George, my wife is very “old school” and wears silk/nylon stockings with garters and all. She would kill me if I ever cut those up! So I guess you could say the pantyhose are mine. I purchase the old “Leggs” brand at my local dollar store. As mentioned, I use them to strain certain paints such as clear coats and metallics that are notoriously grainy. Works like a charm as my flat coats never get milky and my metallic coats are always smooth and even. You would be amazed at how many so-called feminine products I use in my hobby. For example, 3 and 4 way nail buffers are excellent for polishing canopies. I mix nail polish remover with Squadron green putty as it slows drying time and the putty sands so much smoother. Eye shadow applicators are wonderful for blending pastels and cosmetic sponges are great for shoving into crevices, like landing gear bays, for paint masking. I could go on and on, but I think you get the point. No one ever gives me any greif when I purchase such items, but I think that is because I am 6’4″ and look like a demented Celt.

        • I agree with the use of ‘non – modeling’ products; I also use lots of them. Additionally, Maybelline Ruby Red fingernail polish thinned with lacquer thinners results in a nice finish that’s a little different than the other reds in my stock.
          That’s a beautiful build Erich.

  2. Nice looking little piece, Erich. It’s always good to depart from the norm, and re-charge the batteries. Even better if it turns out like this !

  3. Good-lookin’ little mini-dio, Erich – I like it.

  4. Erich,
    Excellent work as usual. I like your mini diorama with the dirt and debris. A tip of scotch for you.

  5. Would love to see the build from day one. Elegant job and great camera work!

  6. Erich, it’s a nice looking model, but I agree with the others, a complete matt finish is not necessarily the best, a slight sheen it usually better.

  7. Wicked good job, nice display and presentation!

  8. try windsor newton matte medium cut 50/50 with tamiya thinner…dead flat…lasts a long time…very thick…mix well

  9. Thanks all for the kind comments and the heads up on different Flat coats-Much appreciated!

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