Trio of Hudsons in 1/72

Started by George R Blair Jr · 355 · 10 months ago · 1/72, 3D printing, Italeri, Lockheed Hudson, MPM, Revell
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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Hi Eric (@eb801): Thanks for stopping in! I have reached an age where 1/48 kits have all sorts of benefits for me, so I originally wanted to find a 1/48 Hudson and build it. The Classic Airframes are really hard to find and the cost is pretty high. At the same time, I was trying to figure out which paint scheme I wanted to do. So, I solved the problem of no 1/48 by building 3 1/72 planes. This also solved the problem of deciding which scheme to do. I have never built more than one at a time before, so I have really tried to keep the 3 kits organized. The builds have gone well, but I think these builds are aided by the fact that they are all from the same molds. I have heard that the Classic Airframes was a tough build, so maybe it is good that I couldn't find one. I also have several 1/72 Venturas, so I may build one just to compare the planes. Until recently, I thought the Hudson and Ventura were the same plane, just different versions. Unlike the Hudson, I do have a couple of 1/48 Revell Venturas. :o)

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): Wow, I really thought the Airfix had the windows in a strip. So you will have the same problem as I did. Greg Kittinger (@gkittinger) recommended using Krystal Klear to replace the windows. I had actually considered using Krystal Klear, but decided early in the build to use the plastic windows. If I were to do these 3 again, I suspect I would probably go with the Krystal Klear. I think I may build a Ventura to go with the 3 Hudsons to show the family resemblance.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year ago:

    All three lok awesome so far, my friend @gblair!

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year ago:

    Very good progress on all, George @gblair
    Although equal, they will look clearly different once you finished them.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Hi, Spiros (@fiveten) and John (@johnb). It has been fun, so far, doing these three kits together. The real fun comes with the paint schemes.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    It was time to move forward and put the nose on the plane. I went back to my lead plane of the three, the Revell model, and started working on the nose section. You may recall that the Revell instructions indicated that a 1mm strip would be added to the top of the nose section, just forward of the pilot's windscreen. The instructions also indicated that 1mm would need to be removed from the chart table that fills the nose. I wanted to approach all of these steps with caution because a misstep will be hard to fix. Not taking anything for granted, I wanted to test fit everything before I committed to glue. Oh boy, will all of this be fun. Just kidding. The nose section consists of two large glass parts, divided horizontally rather than vertically. These will be glue to the existing fuselage section. The tip of the nose compartment is a glass piece that will be glued to the other two glass pieces. First challenge is that the glass pieces are very thin with no locating pins, flanges, or anything else. I taped the glass pieces together and then measured the width of the glass nose pieces with the width of the fuselage and discovered that they match perfectly in size with the 1mm plastic piece added. I also wanted to check the canopy width, since it is also dependent on the width of the forward fuselage. I tapered the 1mm strip slightly toward the rear and glued it in place. I then lightly glued the two glass pieces together using Tamiya liquid cement. After letting it dry for a while, I checked the fit of the chart table and discovered that it fit OK without removing any material. In fact, is is just a little small, so I may find some very small strip to reinforce the joint of the glass pieces and provide a ledge for the table to sit on. I hope to get the nose glued securely and then add some Future to the interior or the glass. Perhaps this will help with the ripples in the glass. I don't want to dip the glass in Future since I still need to fill and sand the joints between the fuselage and the glass and between the two glass pieces of the nose. This whole process is very fiddly, and the bad news is that I will have to do it 2 more times. I hope to get the nose completed tomorrow, but I am trying to move slowly on this first example. More tomorrow. Cheers everyone.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    Carl Smoot said 1 year ago:

    Interesting post George (@gblair). Those kits handle the nose differently than the Airfix kit (which has more of the small windows). I am evaluating a plan right now how to deal with my Hudson's nose because the small clear nose cap is thick and distorted. More in my own build thread when I get to them.

    I like the extra effort with the 3D printed camera parts. So many new things to learn with building these days. It's almost like starting over from scratch.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Hi Carl (@clipper): The nose compartment is really interesting in these kits. The two clear parts are divided horizontally so that the join-line doesn't run through the windows on the top and bottom of the compartment. The join runs between the small windows on the side of the compartment, but there is very little room for the filler and sanding that will be needed to make it look OK. It will also need filler and sanding to join the nose compartment to the fuselage. I'm not looking forward to the process. I haven't test-fitted the nose cap yet, so I hope it fits. It is also made of very thin plastic.

    3D printing is fun, but it has a real learning curve, and designing the parts has its own learning curve. I am designing stuff that consists of very simple shapes. The camera consists of just a flat plate and a tube. I probably could have scratchbuilt it in less time than it took to design and print it, but I like the idea of being able to create identical pieces. It will also print very fine detail. The walls of the camera tube are only .2mm thick. There is no way I could build one that thin. Have you started your thread yet? I am looking forward to following along. Cheers.

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    Spiros Pendedekas said 1 year ago:

    An awesome step, my friend @gblair! Everything seems to be clarified now. Indeed, the process is at places fiddly and those nose parts are THIN! Love the 3D cameras! Looking forward to your progress!

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Thanks, Spiros (@fiveten). I like the idea of attacking the Revell kit first, which then helps and speeds up the other two.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year ago:

    Glad you found the correct way forward on those noses, George @gblair
    All seems to fit quite nicely now.
    Seems like your lurning curve is getting steaper now, your designed camera parts look very nice.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Hi John (@johnb): I still plan to check the fit on the other kits before I glue. I'm not assuming they will all fit the same.

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    George R Blair Jr said 1 year ago:

    Things really slowed down today. I am trying to take steps to insure that some areas of the kit do not become a problem later. I was concerned about the join between the fuselage and the very thin plastic of the nose section. I am also worried about how the landing gear is cemented to the wings. I spent most of my time today trying to deal with these issues. Several times I had to walk away from the model and go work on my train layout. After I relaxed a bit, I could go back to the Hudson. Since this Revell kit is my pathfinder, the things I do should go faster in the next two.

    7 attached images. Click to enlarge.

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    John vd Biggelaar said 1 year ago:

    Some good progress, George @gblair
    The strengthening of the landing gear looks more than sufficient this way.

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    John Healy said 1 year ago:

    Great progress on these, George. That spacer strip needed on the nose is huge.