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Rob Pollock
195 articles

Nakajima Ki44 Shoki (Tojo)

November 3, 2013 · in Aviation · · 17 · 1.9K

Here's one of Hasagawa's Tojo subjects in , with an Big Ed set. I particularly liked the Eduard detailing for the engine, undercarriage, and cockpit. The masking set was also useful. There were numerous other minute pieces that I used, but which frankly were too small to be noticed as worthwhile detail.

Both decal options are for 47th Flight Regiment, 'Masters of the Sky' squadron. Rather than use (most) decals, I painted the wing/fuselage bands, leading-edge recognition bands, the cowling anti-glare, and the red fuselage flashes. The metal finish is Gloss Aluminium.

This is another 'installment' of an Empire of Japan series I've had an interest in building for a while (note recent Shinden posting), but this is in fact my last build-posting generally for a while. It's the time of year I go back to a wooden ship model for a couple of months to clear my head after a busy year of injection builds, and to think about 2014 projects.

Happy modelling!

Reader reactions:
2  Awesome

4 additional images. Click to enlarge.

17 responses

  1. Great model with a great finish.

    Now on to REAL modeling of sailing some pics that we all might drool.

  2. Really sharp looking paint job. Great detail work in the cockpit. Beautiful work!

  3. Great looking build, nice finish too.

  4. Nice work.

    I noticed something in your close-up shots. You appear to be airbrushing with your paint a bit thicker than it needs to be. I usually shoot with the paint at 40% thinner minimum, and 50-50 frequently. This allows a very smooth final finish, even in close-up.

    Not a criticism of your work, just passing on information that may help in future.

    • Tom, can you tell me what gives you the idea that the paint is sprayed thicker than it needs to be? I looked at the close-ups but I can't see it. Only thing I see is that the pics become more "grainy" ( if that is the correct English word) when I look at the close-ups. BTW room temperature and air pressure can have influence on the paint coat too.

      By the way; very nice Shoki!

    • Hi Tom,

      In this case, and for the first time, I tried a rattle-can of the Tamiya gloss ali, although usually I'd airbrush Alclad or similar, suitably thinned as you mentioned. I could have de-canted the rattle-can paint to airbrush it, but was curious to see what the finish might be like. I'd agree it's not as delicate and controlled a finish as with airbrushing, but if it only shows up under a camera macro lens I can probably live with it as a reasonably successful experiment.

  5. Very nice, Rob. Enjoy the ship building!

  6. Really attractive model, Rob. I like building models of Japanese bikes, now you make me want to try one of their planes! Re the alujminium finish, was it airbrushed or did you use the Tamiya aerosol?

  7. Nice clean build, great paint scheme, almost looks pre-war.

  8. Rob,
    Very good looking model great job.

  9. Nice looking KI44...I too have used the tamiya rattle cans...the gloss alu is pretty good. I found tamiya as-12 bare metal silver a bit easier to use. I have sabre jet I did with that as a base and a F-84 where i used the gloss alu as the base. both are posted here.



    • Interesting. I think these products are all ok, but I'm wary of using them when the can volume decreases as the pressure tends to fall away a little and affects the paint and as a final finish isn't suitable, unless decanted for airbrush of course. Still prefer Alclad black gloss base + one of their metal coats applied in light coats. It seems to 'become' metal even as you spray.

      Cheers for looking.

      • I've got a trick when it comes to rattle-cans (which are a favourite of mine for all silver finishes): dunk it in hot tap water (NOT FROM THE KETTLE!) for a few minutes before spraying. It raises the pressure in the bottle as well as making the paint flow a bit easier.



        • Yes I've done that too as I have to do spray work in outside shed so temperature/humidity can be an issue and warmed primer/paint performs across wider quality band than if used 'cold' in such conditions.

          I've also tried same method for Klear (Future) so that excess (literally) clears away from canopy face more quickly without beads or curtains, although simply using indoors provides same results.

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