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WIP Update 2: 1/32 Trumpeter Hellcat in Royal Navy FAA Markings

This article is part of a series:
  1. Work In Progress: 1/32 Trumpeter F6F-5 Fleet Air Arm Version
  2.   WIP Update 2: 1/32 Trumpeter Hellcat in Royal Navy FAA Markings
  3. WIP: 3rd Update “1/32 Trumpeter F6F-5 Hellcat in Royal Navy Markings”
  4. 1/32 Trumpeter F6F-5 Hellcat “Fleet Air Arm 1944-45”

This is my second update for this commissioned build. As you can see from the photos the aircraft is mostly fully assembled. This update is focused on painting process. The paint used is Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics. The paint used in the pictured pre-shading process is highly thinned and built up slowly. The final layers applied to each color is also highly thinned. This allows me to slowly build up the paint while controlling how much of the pre-shade shows through. The masking material is a combination of Blu-Tak putty, Tamiya tape, and masking tape.

The last few pictures show my brand new IWATA HP-CS Airbrush. I started the project with my older Grex airbrushed but it broke down. I am glad it did b/c it was frustrating me and this new IWATA works like a dream. I have also included the drawings included with the decal package showing the aircraft being modeled, and finally, the primary paints used for the camo paint and underside.

18 additional images. Click to enlarge.


20 responses to WIP Update 2: 1/32 Trumpeter Hellcat in Royal Navy FAA Markings

  1. Wow…….just wow!

      • You might want to go fill that snazzy airbrush with Tamiya “RLM Grey” and go over that green area, since “RLM Grey” is much closer to Dark Slate Grey, which is the proper color that Green isn’t. And you should be able to freehand it, since the Grumman FAA camouflage was not “hard edge.” Just a thought here. You’re doing so good, don’t get the wrong color by accident.

        • I do have the RLM Grey by Tamiya and when I eye ball it against the few color photos I can find it does look very close. I was so torn but all the good sources recommend the FS Specs I used. I did not trust my eyeball. I need to do some washes/filters anyhow which changes the hue a bit. I also need to lighten the whole camo to be more bleached. I used the Blu-Tak to get a softer scaled edge but it was still harder then I like. The problem with fixing is when you build up the colors and use this pre-shade technique you must touch up the same way so would need to re-do the color from scratch with all the pre-shading…aggg. I think I need to just keep it as is and wait for final product after filters/wash, fading..etc. Although I am very very tempted to re-do the green. Thanx for the advice..it is accurate.

  2. Looking good Paul. I too am the proud owner of the HP-CS though I haven’t used it yet as I haven’t yet found a convincing enough article about how to clean it. I am currently using an Aztek A470 and these things are a snap to clean

    • George I love your profile picture! One of my favorite movies. Was his name “screw-ball”, or “odd-ball” or something like that??? Anyhow I to have used the Aztek for years. Actually the Aztek was used on part of this build b/c the GREX was giving me issues and was waiting for parts to fix it. Then the AZTEK internal mechanisms came apart. I needed to snap open the whole body and try to fix it. I partially fixed it enough to do a basic paint job until it kept on breaking. Then Got parts for the GREX, it worked somewhat but was blowing paint back into body, but still used it until the Metal trigger arm snapped. SO got the IWATA. I cleaned it up last night with no issues. I think it is easy to clean based on the design, especially the quick cleaning methods between color changes is easier then other models I have used. Is there something I should know about it regarding cleaning problems? It seemed a fairly traditional breakdown??? You must try it! The action is so smooth and easy that it is the 1st time I used airbrush without a pre-set adjustment.

      • No problems I know of Paul. This is going to sound weird but I owned my Aztek for about 15 years before I got the courage to fire it up 3 years ago. It still takes me a few days to psych myself up enough to spray. Doing it right now in preparation to paint an RAF Fw 190. Back to your first question, his name was Oddball….woof woof!!

  3. That’s gonna turn out real nice….I can see it now. 🙂

  4. I still love my Paasche-H, been using it for 46 years (nothing original left, so I should not say I have been using “it”, but rather “been using that kind of airbrush”). I don’t use anything else. Just screw in a #1 tip and go have at it.

  5. In terms of technique this may be your best yet, Paul. Lots (and lots) of patience, trust in the equipment (and your skill), and steady nerve. Huge respect.

  6. Paul, I’m hoping you don’t mind me sticking an oar in. Not trying to add an opinion on the colours so much as just wanting to see some great photos. Well…ok, I will add an opinion. These photos do show that although ‘factory fresh’ aircraft are…oh, blah, blah, blah, let’s see some great aircraft pics.

    I know not all are from the exact theatre you are depicting, Paul, but some really show that modulation in colour that for me, you’ve nailed. Interesting weathering patterns and differences in shade and tone.

    — Image [pic9] not found —

    I’m sure you’ve seen most, if not all of these, but these pics really deserve a wide audience, especially in modeling terms.

  7. Hm…I’ts a bit of a harsh effect,regardles of scale, and I dont like the shade of the green, looks waaay to bright. Not sure where you’re going after this to blend it somehow.

  8. I appreciate you showing the technique for layering your paint. That’s great for us admirers. Now I have a new skill to work on. Thanks. And it is looking real good.

    David, thanks for the photos. I hadn’t seen most of them.

  9. Paul, I use Humbrol #102 with a couple drops of light gray to cut the “greenness”. The color varied as evidenced by David’s photos. Take your pick.

    2 attached images. Click to enlarge.

  10. Love the technique – I’ve just taken up an airbrush for the first time, and not sure I’m up for that much effort yet – but some day soon…! Love the results you’re getting, and I like to shoot for realism, so at some point I’ll come back to posts like this for tutoring!

  11. Looking good, Paul.So let me show my ignorance, dark slate grey is a shade of green? Does anyone know a close match in the dreaded rattle can?

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